2008 June | The Expeditioner Online Travel Magazine

Day Eleven — Twelve

On my last day in Copenhagen I visited Christianshavn, the island south of the center of the city. It’s actually a well known squatter’s village where thousands of Copenhagers have set up a bohemian commune. Full of eclectic houses, various shops and stores selling everything — and I mean everything — it has a carefree spirit that reminded me of the town where I lived for a year — Boulder, Colorado.

Copenhagen also has a great cafe culture along the many waterways during the summer…

…and amazing sunsets.

After a night checking out the Saturday nightlife in Copenhagen, I somehow made it to the airport with just enough time to catch my flight back to New York. I’m back now; slept for a little more than 11 hours to make up for my almost zero sleep over the last two days, and now I’m back in balmy New York (who thought I’d ever say that?).
There was a great view of Greenland on the flight home — maybe potential trip?

I’ll be getting back to the normal site format tomorrow, with articles starting up again next week. Thanks to everyone who followed me along my trip, and thanks to everyone I met along the way that made the trip so amazing.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 30, 2008 @ 7:10 pm
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Day Ten

I´ve been in Copenhagen for only about a day but I feel like I´ve been living here for a year; a surprisingly easy city to learn despite its massive size. I headed to Club Silk last night. This club proved that even an all-you-can-drink night can´t make up for a lame crowd. Oh well, I had a pretty good time.

I did a ton today, including an amazing bike trek around the city on one of the rent-a-bikes set up around the city. I’m embarrassed to say this bike turned out to be even nicer than the one I have back home in Brooklyn — this one at least had brakes. You can see a video of my bike trip below.

Tomorrow’s my last day, unfortunately, but I look forward to checking out Christianshavn, this island known for its funky vibe and one of Europe´s largest squatter communities. Should be interesting. Also, one final boat trip. Kind of a bookend for the trip given my nautical theme when I began in Stockholm.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 27, 2008 @ 7:09 pm
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Day Nine

I got to talking with the girl sitting next to me on the train to Malmo. I was telling her about my site and she pulled out her computer and for the next hour-and-a-half showed me pictures from her recent four-month trek through India. What an amazing trip. She said her money went so far there. Traveling in Scandinavia makes an American feel like an Indian traveling in Europe.

Anyways, she phoned up her friend in Malmo to ask him what I should do when I got there, and he said, “Go to Lund.” So I hopped off the train early and stayed in Lund. This university town, about 10 minutes by train outside of Malmo, is a great place to wander around the old, medieval streets. Also, I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a million times, Lunders love bicycles.

My hostel was actually an old, parked train.

If only I stayed in the boat hostel located in Stockholm, I could’ve said that I had spent the night in a plane, train and a boat.

Of course the only bad thing about college towns in the summer is that they tend not to be as active at night. I watched the Germany v. Turkey match on a huge, outdoor screen in one of the town´s squares but then I got sleepy halfway through and had to leave. I’m ready to start enjoying the nightlife again when I get to Copenhagen. I got up early and spent the morning in Malmo. I think I made the right decision to stay in Lund. Malmo was good to see, but seeing it during the morning was good enough for me. I visited an international food bazaar in one of the old downtown streets.

I got to Copenhagen with no problems, checked into the hostel, and after smelling myself and the contents of my bag, I decided to trek it over to the world-famous Laundromat Cafe in the hip district of Nørrebro to do my laundry and grab a drink. The Laundromat Cafe is probably one of the coolest laundromat/cafe/bars/lending libraries in the world.

The owner told me to stop drinking the Diet Coke in front of me and he popped open a bottle of Anton’s Æblemost, an organic Danish apple soda. Nørrebro reminds me of home, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I think I’m gonna like this town.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 26, 2008 @ 7:05 pm
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Day Eight

Sitting in the Gothenburg train station this morning waiting for my 11:40 to Malmo. Here’s a couple videos from yesterday I took. The first is of Heaven 23, a rooftop bar that had an excellent view of the 10:30 p.m. sunset. The Second is a view from inside one of Gothenburg´s many trams.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 25, 2008 @ 7:03 pm
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Day Six — Seven

I braved the cold breeze (okay breeze is being kind) and headed into central Gothenburg and began by getting a svelte haircut in a shop on one of the city’s fashionable pedestrian-only streets. With a few pounds of hair missing from my head, I made my way through downtown and stopped at the Maritime Museum (Sweden’s largest floating museum/Sweden’s only accessible U-Boat) and walked through a destroyer, various fishing vessels, and of course a U-boat. I then caught a tour of the Gothenburg Opera House, one of Europe’s newest but most notable opera companies, where we were shown throughout the backstage and around the nautical-themed foyer.

A friend and I had Tapas at La Sombrita on Lilleplatan, one of the best areas of the city for restaurants and bars.

Today I started out early and made my way through Slottskoggsparken to the zoo which recreates the North Country of Sweden for the various elk, moose, and goats that roam the rocky terrain. I hopped on one of the trams that is Gothenburg’s main transportation system and visited the City Museum to see the only remaining Viking ship in Sweden (remains is the key word), then finally strolled down the Avenue, the Champs-Élysée of Gothenburg, to check out the various shops and restaurants the street is known for.

Tomorrow on to Malmo, then finishing up in Copenhagen. The week is going by way too fast.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 24, 2008 @ 6:57 pm
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Day Four — Five

When I booked my ticket to Tallinn, Estonia, from Stockholm, the agent mentioned something about this particular trip being a Persian-themed party cruise, which I found out later on meant that a large group of people from the Persian community in Scandinavia had planned a special holiday party cruise, complete with a special dining menu in the buffet, Persian DJs and bands all night throughout the cavernous ship, and a few hundred partygoers ready to enjoy the festivities in the open water of the Baltic Sea.

I’d met a couple of the ship’s performers earlier in the day who were leaving the boat for the weekend, but they told me the name of one of their friends who was stuck on the boat for the weekend with nothing to do. I had the information desk hail her and we met up for a quick dinner and then headed out with a couple other crew members whose shifts had ended to check out the scene. By the middle of the night the place was packed; not exactly how I imagined this cruise was going to be (I was picturing something more akin to Jack’s voyage in Titanic minus the iceberg). Here’ a short video.

The next day I headed out into Tallinn. The boat docks for only about 8 hours, so I was really limited to just visiting the historic “Old Town” where the city was founded. The neighborhood has preserved the layout of the old city, including buildings dating back to the middle ages and the narrow, cobblestone roads that wind their way between the shops and homes.

On Sunday we docked back in Stockholm and I backpacked my way back through the empty city to the train station where I caught a 2:00 train to Gothenburg where I just arrived. I heard it before but it´s something you don´t really believe until you see it first hand, but the trains here are amazing.

After helping myself to the a la carte stand set up at the end of the train car decked in bleached blonde wood paneling and electronic sliding glass doors separating the halves of the car, I settled into my plush, rollback seat that rivaled the size of most seats in first-class airliners. Now this is travel.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 22, 2008 @ 6:52 pm
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Day Three

After finally getting some sleep (does eight hours make up for only five hours of sleep in a 48-hour period?) I headed back to Gamla Stan to do get a little video footage which I’d been neglecting to do thus far, and made my way along the island coastline south towards the giant Viking cruise line boat to book my trip to Tallinn, Estonia.

Once I finally got there I was kindly informed by the lone ticket agent, “This boat goes to Helsinki. You want to go, you will like?” No thanks, I answered, and she patiently pointed out to me the boat where I needed to visit, which happened to be on the exact opposite end of the city.

I finally bought a ticket and on the way back met a group of Stockholmers heading to the park to partake in some midsummer festivities. Perfect, I had about four hours to kill until I had to ship off.

In the center of the park there was a traditional maypole set up (a giant, flowery phallic symbol) and we watched a group dance to traditional Swedish music. Later, a mass of children converged onto the opening and danced as well (something all Swedes are embarrassed to admit they did when they were younger). I met a group of Swedes with a stockpile of various liquor who invited me to a bbq. I thanked them, but told them I was on my way to Tallinn.

I just checked into probably the nicest accommodations I’ll see this trip and will be heading out tonight, arriving in Estonia in the morning (hmm – never thought I’d be typing that last sentence anytime soon).

posted by Matt Stabile on June 20, 2008 @ 6:50 pm
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Day Two

I convinced my friend Helena, who works as a local travel writer in Stockholm, to skip work and show me around her favorite places around Stockholm. We took one of the open-air boats in the docks next to Gamla Stan and took a ride between the many islands that make up Stockholm.

From here we cruised next to the Royal Palace, the central museums, and finally got off at Djurgarden, the island home to Stockholm’s largest park, an amusement park, and a recreated village of old Sweden. We grabbed an afternoon drink at Josefina, one of Stockholm’s most “in” bar/lounge that overlooks the bay. It’s normally packed after work with the city’s business elite and fashionistas, but because the next day was a national holiday — Midsummer — we had almost the entire lounge to ourselves.

We next hopped on a bus to Vaxholm, a small, boating island north of the city, where Helena was meeting her parents and heading into the countryside via schooner. This island is one of the main launching points for boats heading into the archipelago (the thousands of islands surrounding the city) and is known for its quaint houses and nautical past. I had a traditional herring dinner, saw Helena and her family off, and took a bus home as a light rain began to fall and the temperature dropped into the fifties. (Why did I pack all short-sleeved shirts and only one warm shirt?)

posted by Matt Stabile on June 19, 2008 @ 6:46 pm
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Day One

I landed in Stockholm after a short stop in Copenhagen, checked into the hostel, and with a few hours of sleep under my belt ventured into central Stockholm to explore the city. I stumbled upon the main park where the city was setting up a stage and a giant screen for the Sweden v. Russia game (Sweden lost later that night; the mood was not exactly festive out on the streets).

I met up with a couple of friends at the Central Station and we walked through the small island of Gamla Stan, the historical center of Stockholm, and onto the next island of Sodermalm where we grabbed dinner. I was able to convince them to show me the Wednesday nightlife in the city, so we headed to a bar that overlooks the city where we drank Carlsbergs while the sun hovered over the horizon well past 11 p.m. We then headed further south to a rooftop bar with an amazing view of the city.

Here the sun finally almost set (it was about 1) and we cabbed it over to the fashionable neighborhood of Norrmalm to our final club where they were playing a mix of dance and reggae on a small dancefloor near the outdoor bar. We filtered out with the crowd as the sun crept back out around 3 a.m.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 18, 2008 @ 6:42 pm
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Day Zero

I’m starting my blog for my Scandinavia trip, even though it doesn’t really begin until tomorrow. I’ll by flying out of New York (okay, New Jersey) tonight and arriving in Stockholm, Sweden, tomorrow morning at the cheerful hour of 7 a.m. It’s quite an adventure lugging around a giant backpack on the New York subway and down Wall Street during the morning commute like I did this morning. (Check out the great backpack I picked up for $20 on Craigslist a few weeks ago.)

Here’s a quick rundown of my trip which I somewhat plan to follow:
June 18 – 20: Stockholm
June 21: Tallinn
June 22 – 23: Gothenburg
June 22 – 25: Malmo
June 26 – 29: Copenhagen

Be sure to check back in for daily postings and pictures which I’ll begin
tomorrow, depending on if my jet lag is causing me to see double or not.

posted by Matt Stabile on June 17, 2008 @ 6:38 pm
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Zip Line Adventures On The Slopes Of Osorno Volcano

A Canopy Adventure in Chile

By Valerie Martin

“I don’t want to do it!” Fara hissed. The French tourist’s eyes widened with fear as we stood on a wooden platform, 1000 feet above sea level, on the western slope of the Osorno volcano.

Glacier-capped Osorno is often referred to as the Chilean Mount Fuji. It’s one of the most active volcanoes in the country, with 11 eruptions recorded since the 16th century.

As I peered down the endless steel cable that would send us flying through treetops and over deep canyons, I was suddenly afflicted by some first-timer doubts of my own. What if the pulley breaks? What if I get stuck on the line before reaching the next platform? What if I crash into the tree? What am I doing here?! (more…)

posted by Matt Stabile on June 16, 2008 @ 2:35 pm
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How To Last A Weekend In London For Under £100

HOW TO LAST A WEEKEND IN LONDON FOR UNDER £100

London Is Notorious As One Of The Most Expensive Cities To Visit, But With A Little Planning And Some Inside Tips It’s Possible To Have A Good Time There And Not Break The Bank

By Jenny Wight

A weekend in London for £100? Yeah right. OK, so you’re not going to sleep between Egyptian cotton sheets, sip champagne, or shop till you drop, but a weekend in town for less than £100 is possible — I promise. It just takes a little planning, some effort, and a whole lot of self-control. Here are some insider tips that can make London work for you.

Accommodation

2 x £15.50 = £31

The Ritz is out, but there are a handful of decent, central hostels in London. Being fairly central is important as it saves you valuable travel pennies. Piccadilly Backpackers Hotel has 10 bed dorms at £15.50. Also check out the Holland Park YHA (£16.50) and St Pancras YHA (£24.50). All prices are per person per night and include breakfast.

The hitch-hiking of travel accommodation — couch surfing — is another option for the more adventurous. This option means you slash over £30 from the budget, but the further you are from the center of town, the more complicated the travel gets (and buying breakfast as a thank you gift should also be considered). www.CouchSurfing.com (more…)

posted by Matt Stabile on June 10, 2008 @ 4:39 pm
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Memoirs From Macedonia

MEMOIRS FROM MACEDONIA

How the ancient city of Bitola, Macedonia, has preserved its ancient raditions and culture — a rarity in modern Europe

By Anna Kosmanovski

Many people reach a time in their lives when they feel a need to find out where they came from and to see their countries of affiliation. For many this may be a pleasant afternoon in Scotland taking tea with a Great Aunt Mary, but for me this involved flying over the sharp Balkan Mountains and travelling to Bitola, the southernmost city in Macedonia (formerly Yugoslavia). My Great Aunt Marys are babushka-style old ladies who speak a strange language and offer homemade, ripened wine. Aghast at your skinny wrists, they will shake their head sadly before forcing you to consume munja (traditional paprika flavored lamb) and potato stew (cabbage stuffed with rice) or hopefully both.

Pella Arriving in Bitola is no walk in the park. The easiest way to get there is to fly into the capital city of Skopje and drive a few hours south. I took what I thought would be a shortcut which involved flying into Thessaloniki, Greece, then hopping into a taxi for a two-and-a-half hour drive. As my driver hurled the car down the road at a frightening pace, he would occasionally point out the window to something noteworthy and mumble. Once he said, “Left – look!” and pointed to what was Pella (rumored to be the birthplace of the Macedonian conqueror Alexander the Great). (more…)

posted by Matt Stabile on June 2, 2008 @ 4:35 pm
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