Adventure Travel

The Bus to Mwanza

Monday, February 13, 2017

The summer before we were married my husband introduced me to Tanzania. Within two weeks we crossed the country from east to west, smelling our way through a spice tour on Zanzibar, sipping Tusker lager at the Mweka gate of Mount Kilimanjaro and following an elephant family through the dried up Tarangire riverbed while on […]

Conquering Devil’s Tower

Sunday, January 8, 2017

I was taught how to trad climb by a guy who said it was like learning how to drive stick: once you start, you’ll never go back to automatic. He taught me in Red River Gorge, a climber-famous area in Kentucky, on a 5.7 grade climb called Octopus Tag. All of it — the friction […]

Go To Guate: Climb Acate

Sunday, October 16, 2016

Examining my sleeping bag as I unravel it, I am relieved to see it is a proper sub-minus piece of kit. Not that I’m some sort of born-again Edmund Hillary-type, but you never know with these “adventure tour” outfits — some of them may as well send you off with a handkerchief and a glass egg cup for all […]

Catching My Breath On Mount Si

Sunday, September 11, 2016

I could feel the sweat beading at my temples, threatening to drip into my eye and deliver the dreaded “sunblock burn.” But before I had a chance to wipe the sweat away, it slid down into the groove beneath my jaw line, then traversed my collarbone before disappearing into the depths of my sports bra. […]

A Journey Back In Time In Sri Lanka

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

I did exactly what you aren’t supposed to do: I looked down. For average non-acrophobes, it probably wouldn’t have meant much, but for those of us with a healthy fear of impending death (including a related fear of snakes, spiders and Abba), the idea the narrow metal staircase leading me to the apex of Sigiriya, the 6-story-high […]

How To Pack A Wet Tent: A Trek Through Torres Del Paine, Chile

Friday, August 5, 2016

The mountain itself seemed to be hurling millions of tiny frozen pellets from every direction, some even rising up from the ground, all apparently aimed directly at our eyeballs. It was impossible to tell the depth of the snow, as it blasted across some rocks leaving them bare, and piled improbably high where larger rocks […]

Here’s What It’s Like To Climb Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s Ancient City In The Sky

Sunday, July 17, 2016

Two things tend to come to mind when you’re visiting Sigiriya, Sri Lanka’s somewhat newly discovered ancient city in the sky. First, it’s usually something along the lines of, “This is the coolest experience ever.” Second, it’s also usually something along the lines of, “I hope these stairs hold, because if not, then I’m a […]

My Four-Day Trip To Peru To Try Ayahuasca

Sunday, July 10, 2016

The sun was setting over the horizon, which meant the mosquitoes were getting ready for dinner. It was time to get inside. I was way out in the sticks, in a small jungle compound sitting next to a tributary of the river Amazon about a two hour’s boat ride from Iquitos, the nearest town and […]

Zanzibar On The Mind

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

The men sit and they wait, casually oblivious to my watchful gaze. I am standing on a small stretch of beach that straddles Zanzibar’s main Town, Stone Town, and the narrow ribbon of Indian Ocean, which separates the island from the African mainland. Fifteen traditional dhow boats wait expectantly at the water’s edge, tiny waves […]

Why I Brought My Baby to Egypt

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Shortly after 3 a.m., I was asleep on an overnight train from Cairo — until I wasn’t. Until my 10-month-old son started thrashing in my arms and convulsing. Until my husband stumbled down from the top bunk to help, until he flipped on the light in the tiny compartment, until he crashed against the bottom […]

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