It might not be a part of the European Union, but Buenos Aires has the ambience to contend with the rest. The city has cobbled-stone roads, plazas and cafes on every corner, grandiose hand gestures, and an endearing sense of pride. They take pride in their language, their women, their ability to argue politics and, most importantly, their beef. It is rather difficult to find a spot that doesn’t serve a shoe-sized steak of a quality previously unknown to foreigners.

However, foreigners who have previously committed themselves to vegetarianism or veganism, can find dining difficult in an asado driven metropolis. I was on the border of vegetarianism before I came to B.A. and now am on the border of being completely carnivorous.

For those that feel desire to stick to their leafy-guns, I stumbled upon an article on vegetarian restaurants in Buenos Aires in the NYTimes. This information had to be leaked because, even though the beef is a treat, one’s dietary preferences should not prevent one’s experience of an incredible city.

Most of the restaurants are located in the trendy, modern barrio of Palermo yet are reasonably priced. I am going to venture to a couple of the spots and see if the Argentines can grill an eggplant with as much flare as their bife de chorizo. Empanadas with lemon, pan-charred Swiss cheese filling? I could get down on that.

The NY Times has graced us again with a look at how to spend your weekend. This time, it takes us to Buenos Aires. Being one of Latin America’s largest cities, there is too much to do in 36 hours. This would be one of those moments to choose quality over quantity of things experienced.

I checked out the list and I can honestly say I have not done, eaten, seen one thing on it. Yet, the itinerary definitely nailed some “must-dos”, like a football match — preferably the Boca Junior against their infamous rivals River Plate — and Graffitimundo, a tour of the spray-painted streets in  Buenos Aires.

Undoubtedly, if you are only in the city for a weekend, you may want to change your sleep schedule. As the article suggests, and I agree, porteños like to party all night long and it’s an experience you will not want to miss.

This article tends to focus on two neighborhoods in Buenos Aires: Palermo and Recoleta. Just as an addition, or perhaps a swap if time does not permit, I would have drinks at 878 in Palermo (Thames 878), a former speakeasy, which radiates relaxation and ambiance. For some reason, some bars in the city jack up the lights, which makes it very uncomfortable to drink and have a conversation at the same time. However, 878 does everything right. From low lighting to leather sofas, it is very comfortable spot to finish off the night. (more…)

For the past couple of months I have stayed within the city boundaries of Buenos Aires. I just figured that I have a lot of time to tour the country and take on new adventures, so I stuck around and tried to really get to know the city.

Before venturing here, I had read that the city is a ghost town in the summer months (January and February). My travelmates and I made plans to visit the coast or the mountains, Iguazu falls or Las Pampas. However, now that summer vacation has officially started, the city still does not sleep. Even though it´s a little quieter, being Latin America´s third-largest city means that it will always be busy.

Even though it is nice to still be a part of the vibe, it´s even nicer to get away from it. On Sunday, my friend brought me to a barrio called San Isidro and it was a nice change of pace. It lies just outside the Capital Federal, in the Greater Buenos Aires Area, or Gran Buenos Aires. We were fortunate to take the car there. The drive allowed me to observe the monumental mansions to my left and the peaceful coastline of the river to the right. For those without the luxury of a car, you just have to take a train from Retiro Station, stop off at Olivos and take Tren de la Costa to San Isidro Station. It sounds simple enough and it is every bit worth it when you get there.

San Isidro used to be where government officials and affluent, British settlers kept their weekend houses. As a result, the bays are filled with NautiClubs (yacht clubs), clean and classic pubs, sparkly restaurants, and the famous Catedral de San Isidro. The church sits atop a small hill, overlooking the vibrant greenery of the barrio.

We sat inside at my friends´ house, sipping mate and talking politics. It was a different way of life here. Everything was calm and tranquilo, chill and relaxed.

It may not be everyone´s calabaza (gourd cup for mate) of mate, but I think it is a nice change of pace from the hustle and bustle of downtown Buenos Aires. There are a lot of things to do there and a artesanal fair on Sundays. If you get one free day, take a breath of fresh air in San Isidro.

It was some weeks ago that I was on my way to Recoleta, a barrio in Buenos Aires, to check out Latin America’s largest bookstore. I decided to take the bus as opposed to the underground because the routes are a bit more comprehensive. That day, by chance, a young man asked to sit next to me. He said he could tell I was not from Buenos Aires.

“Where are you from?” he asked.

I explained that I was from Canada and that I had only been in the city for a couple of weeks. He said that he and his friends ran walking tours of the city and offered to take me on one whenever I had the time. He gave me his e-mail, and I thanked him and got off at my stop. Weeks later, I opened my purse, found his e-mail, and said what-the-heck, why not?

I contacted Nicolas and asked if I could take him up on his offer. We arranged to meet on Monday at a hostel where I could join a group he was leading. I arrived at the Ostinatto Hostel, unusually early, and waited for the rest of the group to arrive. The tour we were taking was called Huellas de Buenos Aires, an excursion throughout the center of the city. This particular tour focuses on three of Buenos Aires’ major historical events: Peron and Evita, the Military Dictatorship, and Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo.

We set out for the Plaza de Mayo, Nicolas and his colleague, Ignacio, detailing those three events and the impact they had on Argentina’s character. Learning about such atrocities put into perspective the struggle and the power of the people to overcome them. We learned why everyone loved Evita, a fighter for the people. They recounted how the Military Dictatorship throughout the 1970s made 30,000 people just disappear. This act of dictatorial horror created Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo: mothers marching on the Plaza to demand to know where their children were. To this day, every Thursday, the Mothers still march.

Along the way, our guides showed us the old Jesuit school, La Casa Rosada, stained pink with bulls’ blood, and a wall scarred with holes created by shell fragments from the 70’s coup d’etat.

Absolutely fascinating and a great way to see Buenos Aires. It’s personal, you can ask questions, and to end the tour, you can enjoy lunch or a beer with your guide. Overall, a great way to spend a day in B.A.

For more information you can visit the Cultour website. It has all the details and contact information.

If you’re thinking of hopping a flight to Buenos Aires in order to escape the snow or cold, I have some things to point out. I am not writing this to critique Argentine culture, but as a heads-up to travelers. Even though I read a lot about Buenos Aires before living here, it seems that I may have skipped over these tips.

In no specific order, the bizarre behaviors of porteños are:

No. 1: Porteños kiss everyone as a greeting and farewell. Whether it is woman to woman, man to woman, man to man, just one kiss, right cheek to right cheek will help you blend in. Don´t be frightened if an Argentine leans in for a beso.

No. 2: Some days you will be walking down the street and see young people covered in a) paint, or b) egg and flour. I have no idea what kind of initiation or ritual this is, apparently it happens in a lot of Latin American cities and towns. Here, it happens a lot. (UPDATE: Turns out this has to do with celebrating university.)

No. 3: Dodging dog poop is a fact of life. In fact, scooping poop is the third most important issue in an election. Currently, the government has a campaign, jugálimpio, to try and encourage people to clean up after their dogs. My advice: scan the sidewalks before you step.

No. 4: Change, coin, centavos are a rarity, but are vital to taking the colectivo (the bus) anywhere. Vendors, store owners, or people on the street are reluctant to make coin. They will even give you more money back if it means holding onto their centavos. Just remember to keep your change whenever you can. Wonder why? Check out this bizarre explanation.

No. 5: Last, but not least, ladies be warned, cat-calling and wolf-whistling is everywhere. Even the slightest feminist-sympathizer may get angry or frightened, but do not be, most of the calls are harmless. That is not to say you should be wandering around alone at night in all neighborhoods. Just don´t let the calls bother you, it´s a cultural thing. Let me put it this way, even the buses can wolf-whistle.

Rumor has it that Argentina has finally decided to make the travel game a little more fair. Recently, the Ministry of the Interior has released a notice that the Reciprocity Tax will take effect on January 1st, 2010. It´s a fee that American, Australian and Canadian passport-holders will have to pay upon entering Argentina. Apparently, if you enter the country from any other “port” other than the Ezeiza International Airport (Buenos Aires’ main airport), you will be charged the fee upon exit.

The fees are as follows:

US = USD 131.00; Australia = USD 100.00; Canada = USD 70.00

The fees are not for a visa, which means if you have a tourist/business visa (free), you will still have to exit and enter the country every 90 days and pay the fee each time.

The tax is based on how much an Argentine has to pay in order to enter those respective countries. My Argentine friend brought this to my attention a few weeks ago:

¨Why,¨she asked, ¨does an Argentine have to pay to go to Canada or the U.S. when you can come here for free? It´s much more expensive for us to go there. That´s why I never go.¨

Eventually, the Reciprocity Tax plans to incorporate all countries that charge Argentines entry fees. Even if it is going to be more expensive for some, I guess the scales are balancing.

I believe that no matter where you go you need to know where to find a decent bookstore. Latin America boasts its big bookstore chain, El Ateneo, but the stores are usually too big, stifling and not rich in hidden gems.

Just recently I stumbled upon Walrus Books in the barrio that I live in, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. The bookstore is non-descript, but when you go in, you feel like you are walking into your own study. Floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with new and used books, mostly used. The genres range from classic literature to psychology to political philosophy to, yes, travel books.

Although I think that the basic travel book is essential, it is always nice to add those books that carry a subjective experience with them. Yesterday, I bought Bruce Chatwin´s In Patagonia, a recount of his time in the Southern Argentine province. It was a used copy, which means affordable.

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As I pack my bags here in gray New York City for my trip home for Thanksgiving, it’s hard to imagine that to the day, two years ago, I was in sunny Argentina, sopping up the rays, and wafting in the scents of the freshly blooming Jacarandas. Sigh.

Naturally, I’m gravitating towards anything Buenos Aires this week, and what better to capture the spirit of the city than a look at the nascent secret restaurant scene (where have I hard of this concept before ?).

From Almacen Secreto, with its regional courses and homemade wine, to vegetarian-friendly Casa Felix where the menu changes daily depending on the whim of the 35-year-old chef (one day’s fare included delicate nut and Peruvian black mint soup to sea bass marinated in deep red Bolivian achiote seasoning), new ones are popping up every day and discovered through word-of-mouth.

If you’re looking for some ideas, check out Time Out or this list (21 at last count) over at Saltshaker.com. And if you go, just be nice and wait to submit your story to me for a few months until it starts to warm up around here. Deal?

Your guide to heading out of the city and exploring what lays beyond Buenos Aires.

By Katie Hammel

For the ambitious traveler, the best of Buenos Aires can be seen in a few days, and even those who want to take a more relaxed approach can get a good feel for life in the city in about a week. But chances are you shelled out a good amount of money for those tickets to Argentina, so taking a short trip is hard to justify. Luckily, there are plenty of other areas in Argentina worth visiting nearby. During a recent trip to Argentina, my husband and I decided to spend a few days in Mendoza, then take a couple of day trips to the Pampas and to Uruguay, all doable side trips beyond the border of Buenos Aires.

Mendoza

Two hours by plane from Buenos Aires, Mendoza City sits at the heart of Argentina’s wine country. The area’s high desert climate at the base of the Andes mountain range is responsible for the uniqueness of the wine produced here. The city itself is small enough to explore in an afternoon, so you can devote the rest of your time to wine tasting or taking advantage of the region’s outdoor activities. For our first day, we chose to concentrate on the wine.

We’d booked a room at a bed and breakfast in the center of town. The owner’s son, Javier, offered to arrange a day of wine tasting for us. Since planning tastings in Mendoza on your own can be a little daunting for newcomers — staff at many places don’t speak English and reservations are mandatory — we decided to take him up on the offer. (more…)

Welcome to the Southern Hemisphere, Matt!

As our fearless Expeditioner was kind enough to mention yesterday, my name is Hal and I’m currently calling Buenos Aires home. To be honest, it doesn’t feel quite like home yet, as I’ve only been in the BsAs a total of 6 nights so far. I’m still seeing everything through a traveler’s eyes, not a porteño’s.

From that perspective, I thought I’d tackle what perhaps is the most widespread rumor about Argentina — the steaks here are the best in the world. I’ve had plenty (I spent a month in Patagonia before arriving in the capital) and, though I wouldn’t call myself a meat-lover by any stretch, I can confirm that Argentine beef is top-notch.

But why? The answer, apparently, lies in what may be the most iconic geographical feature of the country: the pampas. These rolling grasslands covering more than 600,000 square kilometers of Argentina’s interior are perfect for one thing and one thing only — yup, cattle grazing. What that means is the vast majority of Argentine cattle are fed not in cramped, hormone-enriched feedlots but out on the open plains. Not surprisingly, happier and healthier cows make for tastier and healthier beef.

To top it off, local beef is cheap. Argentines pay just $1.65 per kg for their meat, compared to $2.86 in the U.S., according to a recent article in the People’s Daily Online. And remember, that’s for a product of much higher quality. Is it any wonder diners here put away a whopping 70 kg of beef per year?

So there you have the skinny on Argentine beef. Hungry?

* Photo by audrey_sel