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{"id":25483,"date":"2017-04-25T21:20:27","date_gmt":"2017-04-26T01:20:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.theexpeditioner.com\/?p=25483"},"modified":"2017-04-25T21:20:27","modified_gmt":"2017-04-26T01:20:27","slug":"maximon-guatemalas-chain-smoking-savior","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.theexpeditioner.com\/wordpress\/2017\/04\/25\/maximon-guatemalas-chain-smoking-savior\/","title":{"rendered":"Maxim\u00f3n: Guatemala\u2019s Chain-Smoking Savior"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/p>\n
Floating mosaics of water lilies hug the sunken interiors of old buildings that line both sides of the dock. I sigh while staring at the jagged cement tops that barely pop above the surface. Water levels here have been rising steadily over the past 50 years.<\/p>\n
\u201cThere used to be a huge park here . . .\u201d the boat driver laments.<\/p>\n
In many ways, Maxim\u00f3n — the vice-laden trickster deity of the Guatemalan highlands — is like these buildings. His foundations are visible yet submerged, planted below the surface yet reaching above. Like much in Latin America, he\u2019s a mix of Spanish and Indigenous influences; a combination of San Simon from the Catholic tradition and earlier Mayan deities. To many of the Maya in Guatemala he\u2019s known as Rilaj Maam.<\/p>\n
Although his origins lie in the murky depths, legend states that Maxim\u00f3n was quite a Casanova back in the mythopoetic day. One day, while the men were off farming, he seduced all their wives. Upon returning, the angry farmers chopped off both his arms and legs. However, life hasn\u2019t been that bad for the legless\/armless deity.<\/p>\n
Today you can find Maxim\u00f3n in many places throughout Guatemala, but Santiago Atitl\u00e1n is the most famous. There you can see him draped in a garland of clip-on ties with a wide-brimmed hat dangling with silk as he\u2019s offered gifts of Rubios cigarettes, bottles of Quetzalteca and money, in exchange for help in areas of business, marriage, crops, health, death and more.<\/p>\n
On a cloudy afternoon during Guatemala’s rainy season, Sue, my travel companion, and I set out to find this notoriously dubious deity. There is something deeply appealing about a saint who can knock back a few shots of Quetzalteca — the harsh local hooch named after the national bird — and then dole out wisdom to those in need. He felt approachable.<\/p>\n
We crouch onto the simple wooden benches of a water taxi, or lancha, at an empty dock in Panajachel and head off. It\u2019s 30 minutes to Santiago Atitl\u00e1n.<\/p>\n
This city in the highlands is nestled between three volcanoes (Tolim\u00e1n, Atitl\u00e1n and San Pedro) and faces a lake Aldous Huxley famously called \u201cthe most beautiful in the world\u201d: Lago de Atitl\u00e1n. At 50,000 people, it’s the largest of the lakeside communities in Lake Atitl\u00e1n.<\/p>\n