<\/p>\n
\u201cYou don\u2019t scream as the camel stands up,\u201d Amina told me with a smile. \u201cIt must be your Egyptian blood.\u201d<\/p>\n
I patted my camel\u2019s neck as he turned towards the pyramids. They stood, three majestic pieces of history, glistening out over the horizon. The sand blew into my eyes as my father barked at me to spin the camel around for a picture.<\/p>\n
\u201cDoes the camel have a name?\u201d I asked his owner, as I nudged for the camel to turn.<\/p>\n
\u201cYes. He\u2019s named KFC — Kentucky Fried Camel.\u201d He laughed at his own joke. Egyptians had a deep, inexplicable love for KFC. Not a single person I had met had been able to explain why.<\/p>\n
My father came up on the other side of KFC. He gazed out over the pyramids.<\/p>\n
\u201cYour homeland is pretty incredible, isn\u2019t it?\u201d<\/p>\n
It took me 27 years to finally visit my father\u2019s, and by extension, my homeland. My father had immigrated from Egypt in his 20’s to England, where he lived for 12 years before immigrating to America. He promised that he would take me back to his homeland but it took years for him to fulfill this promise. There had been many reasons why it had taken me so long to get to Egypt: I never had enough money to go, my dad had never had enough money to take me, my mom had never trusted my dad to take me, etc . . . <\/p>\n
I wasn\u2019t raised to be Egyptian. My father never taught me Arabic, I didn\u2019t learn proper Egyptian customs, and my knowledge of Islam is subpar at best. Nonetheless, I wanted to see Egypt, and during one spring break, I finally went with my father.<\/p>\n
My initial reaction to Egypt was that I was going to die. Having grown up in the suburbs of Los Angeles, I was used to wild drivers, but Cairo drivers considered traffic lanes to be suggestions.<\/p>\n
My cousin Ahmed nearly got into a wreck as we exited the airport. He didn\u2019t actually look like me, and I couldn\u2019t remember which cousin he was related to (my father had attempted to prep me on all eight million of our cousins and I remembered two).<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s nice to meet you, Yasmina,\u201d Ahmed told me, as he proceeded to cut three people off.<\/p>\n
\u201cYou too,\u201d I gripped his backdoor handle, praying for dear life.<\/p>\n
\u201cAhmed,\u201d My father said in Arabic, \u201cjioeawhiofhiowhhfnaiofnioaeoaofa?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cWhat?\u201d I blurted out.<\/p>\n
\u201cYasmina doesn\u2019t speak Arabic,\u201d My father brushed me away. \u201cJioianfaoijweowejoiono?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cHahahahahahaha,\u201d Ahmed replied. \u201cAhoijhewoiabfihweaoifhoiwhfeoihfow.\u201d<\/p>\n
While the two jabbered away in Arabic, I took in the surroundings of Cairo. A number of men wandered out into the street, completely oblivious to the cars honking and the drivers swearing at them. Girls wearing designer hijabs lounged on street corners, casually sipping on cups of coffee. I didn\u2019t understand any of the street signs but could see stores lining the streets with makeup, dresses, soccer jerseys and hats. The honking never stopped. I couldn\u2019t tell if they were honking at other cars, pretty girls or the person in the car next to them. It didn\u2019t seem to matter, they just kept honking.<\/p>\n
\u201cThere are a lot of people out tonight,\u201d Ahmed explained, switching to fluent English. \u201cThursday night is like our Friday night. Our weekend is a bit different than yours. We don\u2019t have work and school on Friday or Saturday. Friday is our day of prayers. Everybody goes out on Thursday night, that\u2019s why the traffic is so bad.\u201d He rapped his nails against his window. \u201cThat\u2019s our soccer stadium. I\u2019ve been there. We have games and concerts a lot too. You probably have a lot of concerts in L.A.\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cWe do,\u201d I answered. \u201cWe have — \u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cJiofnaoiewjoiwfnioewanfoiafnoew?\u201d My father cut in, to which Ahmed laughed.<\/p>\n
We arrived at our hotel, a chic, emerald structure in the heart of Heliopolis, the city where the rest of my cousins lived. As we pulled into the driveway, a bulky soldier with a machine gun stopped our car. A large German Shepard followed at his heels. He knocked on the back of Ahmed\u2019s trunk, which he popped open.<\/p>\n
\u201cSince the Revolution, our security is much tighter,\u201d Ahmed explained as the man closed his trunk and motioned for him to come into the hotel.<\/p>\n
\u201cIs it bothersome?\u201d I asked.<\/p>\n
\u201cNo, it\u2019s just for our safety. Things are better, but still a bit up in the air.\u201d<\/p>\n
We got out the car as a man in a pristine black suit sauntered towards us. He motioned for my bag, which he threw through a metal detector.<\/p>\n
\u201cJioniownfioeanofia?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cWhat?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cYou don\u2019t speak Arabic?\u201d He asked me in English, raising his eyebrows.<\/p>\n
\u201cNo, sorry.\u201d I hung my head in shame.<\/p>\n
\u201cJionweoijafhhoeowanojfioa,\u201d My father came around my side and put his bag through the metal detector.<\/p>\n
\u201cAh, jowienafiojenwoinfaoa.\u201d The man turned back to me. \u201cWhat\u2019s the matter with you, your daddy\u2019s Egyptian and you don\u2019t speak Arabic?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cHe never taught me!\u201d I protested. It was true. My father had brought me an Arabic workbook and after about a month of attempting to teach me decided that it would be easier for me to learn more about soccer since that was always on the TV. My father had never been a good teacher, and every time he tried to tutor my sister and me in math, he threw his hands up after about 10 minutes and went to go eat.<\/p>\n
\u201cThat\u2019s okay. My name is Muhammad, like Muhammad Ali.\u201d He pretended to box the air. \u201cA very warm welcome to you. My father told me that this is your first trip to Egypt?\u201d<\/p>\n
\u201cIt is,\u201d I responded, as three horns went off.<\/p>\n
\u201cWelcome to your homeland! This is your country too. I hope you will find everything to be enjoyable.\u201d He beamed as he opened the front door for me.<\/p>\n
\u201cHow do you say thank you?\u201d I whispered to my father.<\/p>\n
\u201cShakran<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cShakran<\/em>,\u201d I said to Mohammed.<\/p>\n The next day, my father and I boarded a plane to take a cruise along the Nile to visit Luxor and see the ancient sites along the way. Upon arriving in Luxor, we were surrounded by dozens of Chinese tourists donning large, straw hats and speaking with themselves in Mandarin. An Indian family dressed in full saris struggled with their suitcases, and a man wearing a full galabeya<\/em> sauntered by, shouting at someone on his phone. This sight caused my father to fall into a fit of giggles.<\/p>\n \u201cCheck out Lawrence of Arabia over there,\u201d He giggled, pushing through a gaggle of Chinese tourists.<\/p>\n \u201cIt\u2019s not nice to make fun,\u201d I hid a small smile. He did look rather odd.<\/p>\n \u201cI had forgotten how different southern Egypt is.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cWhat do you mean?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cYou will see.\u201d<\/p>\n <\/p>\n We began the journey in Aswan, arriving there after a few days. The Nile in Aswan was a sparkling, shimmering blue that was so bright I forgot it was a river and not the ocean.<\/p>\n My father and I settled into our room and he quickly decided to give me a brief tour of Aswan. He strode down to the lobby and marched right up to one of the desk attendants.<\/p>\n \u201cHello,\u201d the desk attendant smiled. His English was perfect. \u201cHow may I help you?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cJioajoeanfionaoinofna?\u201d Baba asked.<\/p>\n The desk attendant paused for a moment. \u201cOionaonfianfnsda. I thought you were both Spanish,\u201d he added in a whisper. \u201cI was about to start speaking Spanish.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cNo, Egyptian. Well, she\u2019s technically American, but she\u2019s my daughter, so Egyptian. Ononwanfoanfoanfoa?\u201d<\/p>\n This continued on for a while as the Chinese tourists oohed and ahhed over luxurious pieces of silk. They poked at the gold camel statues and the hieroglyphic necklaces as a bored salesgirl clicked away on her phone.<\/p>\n \u201cDo you like your homeland?\u201d It took me a minute to realize that the attendant was speaking to me.<\/p>\n \u201cOh yes, it\u2019s quite lovely.\u201d<\/p>\n He beamed. \u201cYou don\u2019t look American. Nor do you look Egyptian. I honestly thought you were both Spanish.\u201d<\/p>\n Baba shrugged. \u201cWell, the Ottoman Empire — \u201d<\/p>\n I prayed that he did not bore our poor attendant. You could always tell if my father liked someone because he would bring up one of the following topics: The Ottoman Empire, Soccer or 401Ks.<\/p>\n \u201cOkay, Mina let\u2019s go.\u201d Thankfully it was a short lesson. Baba pulled me through the deck and onto the street, where cars whizzed by.<\/p>\n Vans held a good 10-15 people, two of which were nearly dangling out of the side. Men shot by on mopeds past full horses and carriages. Women lounged on park benches as boys kicked around a soccer ball. And just like in Cairo, there was constant honking.<\/p>\n My father whistled to attract the attention of a nearby carriage. \u201cThis is Aswan\u2019s version of a taxi. Hop in.\u201d<\/p>\n I struggled into the carriage while my father clambered in next to me, barking at the carriage driver. Dust blew into my eyes as we passed men sitting outside, smoking hookah and shouting at one another; teenage girls strolling arm in arm, stopping every few feet to take a selfie; dogs sauntering down the street and cats tucked by trash cans; soft city lights glowing in the distance. I gaped as an entire family of five roared by on a moped. Cairo had felt more modern, whereas Ashwan felt as though it had stopped growing sometime in the 1950s.<\/p>\n Along the way, I noticed there were stores framed with pictures of smiling couples and pink and white dresses.<\/p>\n \u201cThose look like Quinceanera dresses,\u201d I commented to Baba, who nodded.<\/p>\n \u201cYea, people really get into weddings in the south of Egypt. In some Nubian villages, the wedding will go on for a week.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cA week?!\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cYea or until they run out of food.\u201d He pointed at a billboard with a man clutching a pair of dice. \u201cThat\u2019s Egypt\u2019s own version of Ocean\u2019s Eleven.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n \u201cEgypt has their own version of Ocean\u2019s Eleven<\/em>?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cYea, but it\u2019s not as good as the American one. They like to rip off American TV too. My cousins told me that Egypt has its own Saturday Night Live<\/em>, but it\u2019s not very good. All they do is make fun of Trump.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cWell, that\u2019s all ours does too.\u201d<\/p>\n We passed a bronzed statue of a man with a pen in hand, staring down at a piece of paper.<\/p>\n \u201cThat\u2019s a famous Egyptian writer,\u201d My father explained. \u201cI don\u2019t remember which one. But he\u2019s from Aswan.\u201d He took in a deep breath. \u201cIt\u2019s been years since I was last here.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cWhen were you last here?\u2019<\/p>\n \u201cOh, I don\u2019t quite remember. Probably after I finished my undergrad and before I went to England to get my PhD.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cWhy didn\u2019t you just get your PhD\u00a0here?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cEgypt is very poor.\u201d He sighed. \u201cIt\u2019s poorer or as poor as most Latin American countries. I had to leave because I had a better opportunity. That, and I got bored.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cYou got bored?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cYea. I kind of got bored in Egypt. So I got into the University of Birmingham, and I decided to just go.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cWeren\u2019t you scared?\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cA little, but it was fun too.\u201d<\/p>\n I sat back in the carriage, reminded of how I had also fled — in my case, Orange County for New Mexico — in order to get a decent education as a writer, and because, I too, was bored. I had needed a break from Orange County and I wanted to see what the rest of the country was like. So without knowing anything about Santa Fe, I decided to just hop on a plane and give it a go.<\/p>\n \u201cI\u2019m so glad that you seem to like Egypt,\u201d My father cut in, interrupting my thoughts. \u201cI\u2019ve wanted to teach you about your culture for so long. But it was hard too, your mother didn\u2019t want me to. She was convinced that if I took you to Egypt I would kidnap you. I\u2019m glad though that you are now finally getting to see it.\u201d<\/p>\n Unbeknownst to me, one of our cousins had hired a tour guide\/archaeologist to show us around the various temples. His name was Ahmed, and it became quite clear why our cousin had hired him: my father knew nothing about ancient Egypt or Egyptian mythology.<\/p>\n