By Matt Stabile /

Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com.

The post Here Are 25 (Free) Museums And Galleries To Visit In London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

“My speaking style was criticised by no less an authority than Arnold Schwarzenegger. It was a low moment, my friends, to have my rhetorical skills denounced by a monosyllabic Austrian cyborg.”

— Boris Johnson

I may have supported, even campaigned, for my fair city’s current mayor, Bill DeBlasio, but I have got to say, I don’t think there’s any mayor in the world I would rather spend an afternoon with sitting around a pub with a couple of pints than London’s Boris Johnson, he of the quotably eloquent put-downs and press conference one-liners. Now an evening out on the town, that would be a different story . . . (Rob Ford of course!).

As the above clip shows, Johnson truly appears to love the city he governs. Known for his introduction of the Barclay Cycle Hire bike-sharing program (or Boris Bikes”), Johnson makes sure to mention his love of biking though Victoria Park and on to Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park as one of his favorits activities.

Some of the other activities he suggests for visitors include:

• The British Museum (he remembers staring at the Elgin Marbles as a child);

• The Tower of London (he points out that it’s the biggest building in London remaining from Norman times);

• Tate Modern (it has the most most visitors than any other museum — 5.5 million);

• Walk down the canal to The Narrow Boat (he recommends the bangers and mash).

It should also be noted that Johnson, though being the mayor of London, was actually born right here in New York City, so he’s got that going for him too (and could also make him a potential candidate for President due to his dual citizenship). One could only hope.

By Matt Stabile

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com. (@TheExpeditioner)

The post Here’s Boris Johnson’s Tips On What To Do In London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

You know that dream you constantly have? No, not the one where you’re standing in front of your 10th-grade history class in your underwear and the teacher is instructing you to recite the lyrics to “Space Oddity” or risk failing the class. I’m talking about the dream where you’re an expat living in London, complete with afternoons spent sipping cider in cozy pubs, walks through Hyde Park in the fall as the leaves change, and constant weekend getaways to close European capitals via discount airline tickets that cost less than a tank of gas back in the States.

Sarah Lydall, former correspondent for the New York Times actually got to live out that dream, working for the paper before recently returning to New York. In a recent article, Lydall recounts her experience living in the English capital, and discusses the many strange and different experiences she had living there compared to her home country, including the joy of feeling a connection to a neighborhood she had never experienced in the U.S. before, and the odd sensation of becoming hopelessly lost trying to navigate the seemingly random layout of the city.

But like any experience living or visiting somewhere, certain memories and differences are bound to become lodged in one’s brain, symbolizing not just that place but also one’s relation to it in comparison to their home country. Here are five takeaways from Lydall, some serving as helpful tips, others as only-in-London observations, but all quirky and unique to the city.

1) The Tube makes “jolly announcements,” such as to “mind the gap” and to “not leave your personal belongings unattended.” Here in New York the announcements are far from jolly, and usually focus on not molesting the people around you.

2) Many places don’t deliver in London. Well, actually, outside of New York City, that’s actually pretty common in my experience, but I can see how New Yorkers find that odd.

3) As little as an inch of snow causes chaos, shutting down traffic across the city. Although, that can be kind of nice, right?

4) “Stay away from Buckingham Palace when the changing of the guard takes place at midday — it wreaks havoc on the traffic and they won’t let you cross the street.” Not to mention all the tourists . . .

5) The weather changes, a lot. Wear layers to allow quick adjustments, and always bring an umbrella.

And there you have it. Hopefully the dream still lives for you, umbrella in tow.

[Lessons From Living in London via the New York Times]

By Matt Stabile

[Big Ben by Theodore Scott via/Flickr: TheExpeditioner Group]

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Matt Stabile is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of TheExpeditioner.com. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos, purchase the book he co-edited or contact him via email at any time at TheExpeditioner.com. (@TheExpeditioner)

The post 5 Takeaways From An American Living In London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

It was 44 years ago today that the iconic photograph was taken that would become the album cover for Abbey Road, the Beatles’ final recorded album. Photographer Iain Macmillan recalled in an interview in 1989 the the iconic photo was the result of just a handful taken by him of the band as they crossed the street in between afternoon recording sessions (and the only where all of the members’ strides were all in sync — symbolism!).

Today, the crosswalk still exists on, yes, Abbey Road (here’s what it looks from above in satellite view), and visitors flock there in droves to see the crosswalk, take pictures of it, and of course, almost get mowed down by drivers on this otherwise busy street as they attempt to have their pictures taken. In fact, there is a 24-hour webcam perched outside the recording studio that records the crosswalk day and night, and which provides a constant stream of images of tourists nearly getting struck as they stop to take pictures in the middle of the road.

Seriously, take a minute or two to watch the video stream and I guarantee you will see at least several examples of near-misses as clueless tourists take to the street crossing for a picture. This, my friends, is not for the feint of heart, or anyone that has an interest in avoiding images of carnage on their computer screen. I would advise anyone watching this to finish up by decompressing and watching a few minutes of this live stream of puppies, which will surely calm you down.

[Abbey Road Crossing Livecam]

By Matt Stabile

About the Author

Matt Stabile is the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of The Expeditioner. The Expeditioner began in 2008 and is headquartered in New York City. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos or contact him at any time at TheExpeditioner.com. (@TheExpeditioner)

The post Here’s How To Watch Tourists Almost Get Hit By Cars On Abbey Road appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

Continuing with what is shaping up to be an unofficial video week here at The Expeditioner, I thought I’d highlight kate Thomas (TravelWithKate.com), a great travel video host and filmmaker (and friend of the site).

I asked her to describe her travel video series and to give a little background as to why she wanted to check out the best makeout spots in London (besides the obvious reasons).

Here’s what she said:

My video series is all about the hyper-local travel experience; connecting with interesting locals who can give me a unique take on their own city, and this video was no exception.

Sarah Bennetto, my featured local, is a very funny stand-up comedian and radio DJ. I asked her to give me an insider look at her neighborhood. Our first idea was to showcase the evolving coffee scene in London. Coffee is going through a revolution there. Many immigrants from New Zealand and Australia are opening up the best coffee shops around town — many with their own imported beans.

Sarah, an Australian coffee aficionado, seemed like a great person to show me the London coffee movement on camera, but then she mentioned she had been compiling a list of romantic spots around town for dates and for making out. And, well, that idea captured my attention immediately. A coffee shop is a coffee shop, but a great make-out spot can transform a trip or a weekend into a gem.

For more about Kate, visit her YouTube Channel here, or follow her on Twitter: @KateLThomas.

By Matt Stabile

About the Author

Matt Stabile is the Founder and Editor-in-Chief of The Expeditioner. The Expeditioner began in 2008 and is headquartered in New York City. You can read his writings, watch his travel videos or contact him at any time at TheExpeditioner.com. (@TheExpeditioner)

The post Here Are The Best Makeout Spots In London [Video] appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

With the London 2012 Olympics upon us, it seems the entire world has gone sports mad. If you’re lucky enough to be in London for the Olympics, and looking for sights to see outside Olympic Park, here are 10 off the-beaten-track experiences to be had in London that have nothing to do with sports (and won’t cost you an arm and a leg).

1) Neal’s Yard

One of the most colorful and cozy corners of London, Neal’s Yard is tucked away at the back of Covent Garden. With bright bunting, Buddhas and trees in colorful pots, it is here that you’ll find good vegetarian food including my favorite sun-dried tomato and coriander rice bran muffins. They’re only £2 each, but be sure to have cash, as cards are not accepted. A visit to Neal’s Yard would also not be complete without picking up some organic skin care products at Neal’s Yard Remedies. Although the shops are all over London, it’s nice to buy the products from where it all began.

2) Monmouth Street

Also in Covent Garden just up from the famous Seven Dials, is Monmouth Coffee, a boutique cafe established in 1978 that’s a must-visit for any coffee lovers coming to London. Be prepared to queue as I’ve never seen the place without a line out the door. Then it’s just a couple of doors up to Coco de Mer, probably the classiest adult shop in London and then on to Mysteries where all your spiritual needs can be met in this rickety but welcoming little store.

3) Daunt’s Bookshop

Arguably the most famous travel bookshop in the world, Daunt’s beautiful main store is located on Marylebone High Street in an exclusive London suburb. You can get lost for hours in this Edwardian shop with its oak shelves — an experience you’ll never find on Amazon. They also sell top quality non-travel related literature. Then, head next door to The Natural Kitchen and buy an organic snack and sit outside to enjoy your new book.

4) Drinking by the Thames

Join the rest of the Brits on a summer afternoon and stand outside around the riverfront downing your pint — it’s the London thing to do. The Thames has been cleaned up over recent years and there are now a multitude of drinking establishments, from modern clean-cut bars to traditional pubs complete with their obligatory hanging baskets full of brightly colored petunias.

5) Borough Markets

The full markets are open from Thursday to Saturday just across the road from London Bridge Station, with other permanent restaurants open everyday. It’s like going back in time to purchase your raw produce just as you would have hundreds of years ago. Just don’t be put off by the freshly culled deer and pheasant dripping blood while hanging precariously by their feet. Raw vegetables, meat, cheese, flowers and more modern cuisine make this heaven for gourmet lovers. There are also a variety of restaurants and wine bars including Roast, Black and Blue and Vinopolis. You can also pop into The Globe Pub, made famous for its staring role in the movie Bridget Jones’ Diary.

6) Sunset in a Royal Park

Primrose Hill in Regent’s Park, North London is a favorite but I prefer Greenwich Park on the southeastern outskirts of the city. It was the first of the royal parks in London, established in 1433, and has more history than most of the others combined. Not only did the Romans build temples here (ruins of which can still be seen), but the Royal Observatory was built by Sir Christopher Wren in 1675 (which means this is the home of Greenwich Mean Time). Henry VIII and his two daughters Mary I and Elizabeth I were also born here. The 73-hectare park is built on the side of a hill so views of London and the Thames River are expansive and provide the perfect foreground for the spectacular sunsets that London is often blessed with.

7) Shakespeare

On the top of my list of nights out is a visit to Shakespeare’s Globe Theater located in Bankside (near the Southwark Bridge), not far from Borough Markets. This theatre is a replication located very near to the site of the original theater built in 1599 of which William Shakespeare was a shareholder. Many of his plays were performed here and today the same experience can be had with the audience enjoying the very conditions and atmosphere from the 16th century.

8) Brick Lane

A visit to London is not complete without having a curry in Brick Lane. It is the curry center of London thanks to its strong Bangladeshi community. Brick Lane is in the city’s east, not too far from Liverpool Street Station. Perhaps eat at Aladin (listed on BBC’s list of “The World’s Best Curry Houses”) or The Bengal Village, but there’s definitely plenty to choose from. The small street is very colorful as a result of small stores bursting with the latest designs from young fashion students and also because of the copious amounts of street art, thanks to artists such as Banksy. There is no shortages of bars either. The Vibe has huge open areas, perfect for watching sporting events (if you really have to) and listening to live music, including open mic nights.

9) Antique Shopping in Notting Hill

Portobello Road is impossible to walk down on a weekend due to the throngs visiting the famous markets. But go midweek and the crowds are much lighter, making it easier and more enjoyable to rummage through the many antique stores. Because England has such a long and interesting history, you’re sure to be happy with some of the finds you make, including old clocks, golf clubs, toys and luggage. Keep your stamina up by grabbing a famous red velvet cupcake from the Hummingbird Bakery.

10) Free Museums

Surprisingly, most of London’s main museums offer free admission. The establishments include some of the greatest collections in the world, so there is no excuse not to see The Rosetta Stone at The British Museum, Vincent van Gogh’s “Sunflowers” at the National Gallery or the Dinosaur Gallery at the Natural History Museum.

*

These experiences are easy to get to and inexpensive, and will offer you the chance to experience a city more familiar to a local than a tourist. In the end you will get deeper into the real London, beyond the London Eye and the famous Tower . . . and, of course, the Olympics.

By Rebecca Ashton

About the Author

Rebecca’s life is one big Walkabout, experiencing external and internal journeys as they make themselves known to her. She aims to inspire others to do the same and learn from the experiences life offers. Her base camp is in Sydney, Australia where she’ll usually be found on the back of a horse. 

The post Top 10 Things To Do In London Besides The Olympics appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

Not because London is a boring city to see, but rather because it would be so much cooler if you could view it like some omnipotent being lording over the U.K. capital, wouldn’t it?

Or so were the thoughs of Mario Muth who, as his Vimeo video description states, shot a total of 25,850 images and whittled them down to 4,980, then manipulated them using After Effects to get the above effect miniature effect. Next stop for Mario: Mt. Olympus.

[Tiny London by Mario Muth]

The post What London Would Be Like If You Were God [Video] appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

This month’s inspiration comes from Jason Rodman and his incredible photo sense. Some people just “get it.”

Here’s what I mean: You walk into your 400th Korean temple and take the quintessential photograph of the gate so grandma can scrapbook it once you return home. But, for some reason, that’s just not good enough . . . not you enough. Believe me, your computer’s hard drive doesn’t want more of the same either.

When you find yourself in a similar position, just remember this story from Mr. Rodman:

I knew I wanted to get an iconic shot of the Tower Bridge, but had no idea what it would look like. I’ve seen this landmark a hundred different ways, so I wanted to challenge myself to see something new, to see this

I walked back and forth over the bridge at least 3 times before seeing this shot in my head. But the challenge was apparent: no tripod! I was traveling light for that trip to London and didn’t have it with me. The railings were round, and the light was dim; there was no option to get the angle handheld, and if I wanted some motion, forget about it.

Dejected, I started crossing the bridge to head home. But, out of the corner of my eye, across the street . . . what was that? A wooden tent-stand, in the walkway, with a flat-ish top? Immediately, I knew this would work. I wedged in my iphone, wallet, and a couple lens caps to level the camera into position and balance it for the shot. I set the remote shutter, waited for a bus to drive by, and snagged this beauty on the first attempt. Still one of my all-time favorite shots.

You’re all-time favorite shots? Come on, I would buy this photograph a beer and take it dancing. It’s that good. Congratulations Jason, your perseverance definitely paid off! Check out other date-worthy shots at Jason’s Flickr page.

Next month’s contest will be delicious. Those of you who enjoyed our popular Food Porn Week last year will love May’s contest: Food From Around The World. Photograph your grub before it goes down the hatch, then post your shot here!

May’s winner will receive a feature post on June 1!
By Jon Wick

About the Author

Jon lives in Butte, Montana, spending most of his time on skis or bikes; sometimes both. He began travel writing while teaching in Korea and is currently pursuing his Master’s Degree in Technical Communication at Montana Tech. Jon has begun writing his first book, The Story of Will, whose movie rights are still (very) available. Catch more of Jon at TheJonWickproject.wordpress.com. (@ExpedJon)

The post April’s Photography Contest Winner: Finding Uniqueness On London’s Tower Bridge appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

In what may well be the oddest initiative to come across our desks in years, the U.K. is apparently considering changing its time zone and moving ahead one hour — from Greenwich Mean Time — to allow for more daylight in an effort to bring about longer summer evenings in southern England, “ideal for restaurants and outdoor venues seeking to boost their trade,” as reported by the NZ Herald.

As explained by Conservative lawmaker Rebecca Harris, “The tourism industry has been crying out for extra daylight saving for years. It could extend the tourist season and boost the economy by up to £3.5 billion (USD$5.7bn) a year.”

Of course those who would be negatively impacted by this seemingly arbitrary shift in the Earth’s order are none too pleased with the idea, namely those in Scotland and northern England who could see their sunrise pushed back to 10 a.m.

So I’d like to open this post up now to you, the faithful reader, for your own ideas for asinine ways other parts of the world could improve tourism. I’ll start everyone off with a couple ideas.

1) New York City could combine the idea of the Naked Cowboy with the Police Department, replacing uniforms and guns with emblazoned underwear and music instruments, thus offering ample opportunities for tourist to take zany photos all over the city.

2) Vancouver could relocate somewhere sunnier and warmer, say, Nevada, where visitors would be guaranteed excellent weather and rain-free days every day of the week. Plus, lower sales tax in the U.S.

The post Tourists Forcing The U.K. To Switch Time Zones? appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

It comes the time of year that nearly everyone in the travel community takes a second to reflect on their past year of travels and begin to imagine the possibilities of the coming year. We’re no different at The Expeditioner. Throughout December, we are going to be publishing a series of “Year in Review” posts from each one of us. So come enjoy the ride as we relive some of the highs (and lows) of our travels, share any tips we’ve learned along the way, and find out what’s in store for world travelers and our own travels in the upcoming year.

First up, Editor Jon Wick:

2010 has been an incredible time in my life and it’s been awesome to share much of it with the Expeditioner Nation.

As for 2011, I have three pretty solid predictions:

1. I see a big England boom coming. I say this for two reasons: 1) William and Kate’s April wedding will attract monarch-loving, white-haired tourists from around the globe; and, 2) It is a great time to see and take advantage of all the upgrades to London as a result of the 2012 Olympics.

2. Qatar. I think the controversy surrounding the World Cup 2022 has brought this small Persian Gulf country into peoples’ minds and curiosities. The Middle East has been on the rise for quite some time– this may just put Qatar on the map. Bad press is still press, right?

3. TheExpeditioner.com signs a multi-million dollar movie deal with James Cameron based on the international bestseller The Expeditioner’s Guide to the World: Intrepid Tales of Awesomeness from the Open Road.

As for my own 2011 travels, I will be taking advantage of a wedding present and heading down to Austin, Texas, for my first ever visit to the Lone Star State in January. Besides that, I would like to revisit the Caribbean, which I haven’t been to since awkward family vacations when I was a chubby, pre-pubescent Midwesterner. I can’t put my finger on why, but Puerto Rico seems to intrigue me lately. Maybe it’s all this early season Montana snow (that’s not a complaint).

The post 2010 In Review: Editor Jon Wick’s Picks, Tips, & 2011 Travel Predictions appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

The FT is reporting the latest trend in the London coffee scene: bikers! No, the Hells Angels have not taken to sipping Mochachinos and chai lattes in their free time. We’re talking about the old-fashioned, manual kind of bikes, the ones that have become oh-so-popular with the coffee-drinking, Millennial set. As the paper notes, just this past May, three different “cycling cafés” have sprung up, offering not only a caffeine boost, but also some lovin’ for your two-wheeler.

Take Micycle for example, in north London, where the garden behind the shop is used for “free bike-washing, parking and seating area” and where tools are available for customers to take a crack at fixing their bike. Other newly opened shops include Look Mum No Hands! in the city’s business district, and The Rapha Cycle Club on Clerkenwell Road.

So what’s the connection? Per Simon Mottram, Rapha’s founder: “Coffee is embedded in road-racing cycling culture, from Italian cyclists stopping for espresso to the café owned by Lance Armstrong in Austin, Texas.” Also, another reason: coffee = 0 calories; 0 calories = looking good in bike pants.

The post The Rise Of The London Cycling Cafe appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

Contributor Andrew Post is traveling in the U.K and Ireland for the next two weeks covering the World Cup and his trip for TheExpeditioner.com. This week he’s in North East England before heading to Dublin, then on to Scotland. Minus any hooligan-related incidents, Andrew will be checking in with dispatches along the way. God help him.

By Andrew Post

For A Few Pints More

After the anticlimactic but non-fatal draw between the USA and England, it was time for a day of rest. Elaine, one of my gracious hosts, had to go to work for the day, but Adam decided to take Jeff and I into South Gosforth (one of Newcastle’s northern suburbs) to meet her afterward.

At about one o’clock, Adam’s mate Jay showed up in his blue Renault. Jay was born a Geordie (for a definition, see my first dispatch), but lived in London while attending university, and has traveled extensively in the U.S. and Australia — all of which meant that his accent wasn’t as pronounced as Adam’s or Elaine’s. His car was like a sardine can, a minuscule hatchback with just enough space for us tall blokes to get our knees under the dashboard.

Walking and driving through sizable English cities makes one sympathize with the numerous Britons who have deserted their shores and gone to live in the States. The main reason is elbow room. London was cramped enough, but Newcastle, though logically laid out, is a maze of byways, one-lane residential streets, and omnipresent roundabouts. Navigating this maze — in a Renault no less — is an exercise in reflex and agility. Clearance between parked cars and moving ones is practically nil at times. Roundabouts eliminate the need for stoplights, but they tend to throw a heavy dose of inertia at drivers as the car whips into the outside curve, throwing all its passengers to the left.

Compound this with the fact that I was sitting up front, and (23 years of driving American cars notwithstanding), there was no steering wheel. My disorientation and dismay should be understood.

Gosforth proved to be much like the rest of Newcastle: refreshingly clean neighborhoods composed of red-brick, two-story houses, many with bay windows in front and small sheds in the rear. The city was well-maintained if slightly aged, with immaculate lawns and gardens. Whatever pity I felt for the English driver immediately evaporated as we arrived at our destination: In England, it’s perfectly acceptable to park on the sidewalk.

We stopped in at a pub called the Brandling Villa, a big, open bar with, as expected, much brass and wood paneling, and a large projector screen set up in a corner (as at Luckies the day before). The Serbia vs. Ghana match was on, so we sat down, ordered up a traditional English Sunday roast (and a round of pints) and settled in.

I once thought that pancakes, a couple of eggs and a slice of bacon was a permissible Sunday brunch. I was clearly wrong. The Sunday roast is hearty enough to fuel a Minnesotan farm boy through a hard winter. In North East England, the Sunday roast consists of mashed potatoes, cubed sweet potatoes, several giant slices of roast beef, green beans, and a hank of Yorkshire pudding (batter baked in an oven and served as a side). This feast comes to the table dripping with copious amounts of dark brown gravy. My hunger wasn’t just sated, it was roundhouse-kicked in the face.

Suitably fueled, Jay, Jeff, Adam and I began the rounds. Taking turns to fetch pints, the four of us managed to sample every single beer on tap, and most of the cider — about seven or eight rounds between us. We tried the Leffe, the Mordue, even the Mordue, a dark red ale from a local brewery. We were there, sitting in the pub, watching football and drinking for something like six hours (I think, I lost count around pint four). The match was long since over; Germany was now creaming Australia. We pulled out a Scrabble board, then switched to Monopoly after disagreeing on too many Geordie slang terms. (“Yeah” was not spelled “Ye,” I insisted to Adam.)

Elaine showed up at 7:00 p.m. and we had a couple more rounds, then called it quits. The Metro ride through northern Newcastle was something out of a fantastic dream. Palatial buildings — actually schools but looking like castles — reared out of the twilit sky (which refused to darken, even at a quarter past nine). The green fields and hedgerows, typical rolling English countryside, darted by in the gloom. Once again I was struck dumb by the fact that I’d actually made it here, observing it with my own eyes.

The Old Castle In Newcastle

On the morning of the fourteenth, Elaine was due at work again. While she was out, Adam, Jeff and I made a solemn bargain: After visiting the old priory in Adam’s hometown, Tynemouth, we would take a dip in the North Sea. No wading around or dancing in the surf, we were going to go under.

After a few minutes at the Tynemouth Library to print our boarding passes for our impending trip to Dublin, we went for a hearty English breakfast at the Waterfront Café. Each plate was piled high with beans, bacon, sausage, eggs, and black pudding (fried pig’s blood, shaped into a patty — goes rather well with egg yolk or the vinegary Brown sauce which is so popular in Northern England). We also ordered about a loaf’s worth of white bread toast, upon which we stacked eggs, black pudding and sausage to make decadent sandwiches. I could hear my arteries and my colon screaming as I ate, but I tuned them out. I was in heaven. The English eat what they like, and nobody can make them feel guilty about it.

Our next stop was the Newcastle priory, which has been around since 1300. There isn’t much left today, except for some columns, some walls, and a few replicated stained-glass windows. When Henry the VIII dissolved the Catholic church, he took the roofs off all the chapels and priories, and, as Adam pointed out, “the elements did the rest.”

The grounds were no less stunning for that. The priory sits on a black cliff overlooking the mouth of the River Tyne, and looks more like a castle than a monastery. An enormous gatehouse, nearly intact, broods over the entrance, portcullis and all. Between the Scots in the North and the Vikings in the East, the monks were kept on their toes for centuries.

Arrow slits adorned the walls, and one could imagine the green lawns dotted with vegetables and crops during a siege. Cannons taken from the Spanish armada and a naval gun from World War II stood sentinel on the seaward side. The graves of sailors and mariners from the 18th and 19th centuries dotted the lawns between the cliff and the priory building, and the tombs of the saints and the gatehouse garrison looked as intact as the day they were shaped. The priory itself brooded atop the cliff like a monument to darker times. It’s a religious experience, standing in a building older than the country one was born in.

A Dip In The North Sea

We walked down the hill and into King Edward’s Bay (known as “King Eddie’s Bay” by the locals). In the words of George Costanza, the sea was angry that day (and a dark blue). The sun shone, but its rays couldn’t stand up to the wind blowing off the water; it was a balmy 19 degrees Celsius. The water temperature, according to the chalkboard by the lifeguard station, read only nine.

Jeff, Adam and I began to get a sense of what we were doing as we found a flat rock and disrobed. Originally, we had planned to wait for Jay, who was bringing clean towels, but we decided to man up and go in anyway. Jeff was a Canadian, Adam was a Geordie, and I was a proud descendant of the Norsemen who invaded these shores hundreds of years ago. There was no way we could back down now.

We walked over the silky sand and entered the surf. The chill was immediate, a crawling numbness in our toes and ankles that crept slowly upward with the icy water. As the cabbie who drove us out to Tynemouth had told us, “You’ll have to squat down for a p— afterward.” Our gentlemanly regions, I took it, were likely to disappear. That seemed more likely than ever as the water got above our knees. Onward and onward the pounding surf came, splashing ever higher, bringing groans and yells and some rather feminine squirms on our part. When we could stand it no more, and our shorts were wetted, we dove under.

I gained a keen sympathy for every single survivor of the Titanic in that moment.

Up we came, howling, our bodies stiffening involuntarily, the skin contracting, droplets of water flying from our hair and flailing limbs. It was a rout. We splashed back to the beach, hollering and grinning like idiots, and ran across the sand, standing in the shelter of the cliff, where the breeze was lightest and the sun was warmest, to dry off. When the numbness receded, we were intact. We put on our clothes, shook the sand out of our cuffs, and walked away — satisfied, manly men. We’d challenged the North Sea and fought to a draw.

Fish ‘n’ Chips

Down we strolled to Fish Quay for the day’s final goal: real, English fish ‘n’ chips. We moved past the statue of the great English admiral Cuthbert Collingwood, the Geordie who took over command of the British Navy after Lord Nelson took a fatal bullet at the Battle of Trafalgar. He is a local hero north of the Tyne, and his statue stands brooding at the mouth of the river, guarding the “Toon” from further encroachment.

The Waterfront is a brightly lit fish ‘n’ chip shop in the east Quayside district, which, though no longer the home of the once-great Newcastle fishing industry, still smells strongly of fish. We sat down and ordered up three large cod, with mushy peas and tea on the side. It knocked Long John Silver’s into a cocked hat. Enormous slabs of codfish were delivered to our table, still steaming, the crust of batter exceeding an inch in thickness, mushy peas dripping down the side, with tea, milk and freshly-buttered toast to go with it.

We did our manly best, but we were unable to finish. The portions were too gargantuan, and our English breakfast was still supplying us. We didn’t go down without a fight, though. I shoveled scoop after scoop of battered cod, dripping in malt vinegar, into my mouth, along with the mushy peas (peas mashed into a paste with a little sugar) as an excellent palate-cleanser. The tea was too hot to drink with something heavy like fish and chips; something cooler would have been preferable. Nonetheless, we left the Waterfront and walked back up to Front Street, near the priory, our bellies stuffed, satisfied and waddling.

At the top of the hill, we headed into the Turks Head, the usual meeting place for Tynemouth folk, and Adam’s favorite pub. Japan was busy playing Cameroon on the t.v., and we got busy with pints of cider. After a few refreshing drinks and another round of congratulations (concerning our tolerance for cold water), we decamped and headed home.

We had now seen the better parts of Newcastle and the waterfront. It was now time, come the dawn, for Dublin. Neither Jeff nor I could believe we’d come so far and done so much, and neither were we ready for what was in store. We knew it would be, as is said in this part of the world, “a good craic.”

Coming Next In Part Three: Summer in Dublin –whiskey, pretty girls, blue skies, castles, Irish pubs, and one of the fairest, greenest and most architecturally-rich cities in Europe.

Read Part One Here

The post World Cup Dispatch: Part Two (Fish, Chips, And Frozen Man Parts) appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

* Disclaimer: TheExpeditioner.com hereby takes no responsibility for your imprisonment or diplomatic incident you cause as a result of mimicking any of the following actions described in this article.

As a writer I think I’ve acquired some questionable thought patterns. Where my mind used to say, “That’s illegal, so don’t do it.” It now says, “Do it. If you get arrested in a foreign country, it’ll be a great story and you’ll have something to write about other than the hostel’s relaxed atmosphere.”

Being mostly ignorant of England’s laws, I’m not exactly sure as to the legality or illegality of what I did. I started to lean towards illegal when the first Brit I approached told me, “You can’t do that! It’s a criminal offense to do that! Especially don’t do it in front of the poppers (British for police).”

But I think this guy was being a bit of a worry-wort. Or as the British say, an old fuddy duddy. I think what I was doing could fall into a moral or legal gray area than an actual criminal offense. Everyone else I approached was either apathetically uninterested in what I was offering, or enthusiastically hailed me as a hero. In any case, what I did earned me some serious poundage.

Let’s be clear. I was not “________” (insert whatever lewd act you have been thinking I was doing here).

Here’s what actually happened.

I always arrive at airports hours too early because I am paranoid that some unforeseen event (like the second coming of Christ or some other biblical event) will delay me. So before flying to London I had plenty of time to browse the duty-free store in the Guatemala City airport. Though I myself am a non-smoker, I was surprised to see cartons of cigarettes being sold for $10 a carton. I vaguely remembered a British guy complaining once about how outrageously expensive cigarettes are in U.K.

Faster than the London bridge came falling down, my mind arrived at an idea: Purchase five ridiculously cheap cartons of cigarettes and then sell them on the streets of London for a huge markup.

So I sold cigarettes. When I arrived in London, I came not as a tourist, but as a cigarette peddler. As I walked the famous streets, checking out the sites, I kept my eye out for smokers. Like a drug dealer looking for clients, I sized up everyone I walked past wondering. Is he a smoker? Is she a smoker? Are they smokers? Should I offer them cartons of cigarettes?

Perhaps the saying should go: When in Rome, do as the Romans; When in London, sell cigarettes and make a bundle of cash.

Selling cigarettes soon became more than just a way to offset costs. It was a reason to start up conversations with strangers. A way to socialize. I became, “The Cigarette Guy,” off-loading cigarettes that cost $8 in London for $4 a pack. Enthusiastic addicts everywhere wanted in on it.

By the early evening I had sold all of my cigarettes. As I handed over my last eight packs in exchange for 30 pounds, I felt a bit sad. I was no longer L’homme Avec Les Cigarettes, but just another tourist in London. I began to crave cigarettes. I wanted more. Not to smoke. I had become an cigarette sales addict.

I write this the morning after a 40-hour stint in London. In a half-hour I need to figure out how to get to the airport where I will fly to Prague. I just Googled the price of cigarettes in Prague, and unfortunately for me (but fortunate for the country’s thrifty addicts), they go for far less than in London. So as I go onwards, L’homme Avec Les Cigarettes will remain behind me. But I will be as interested as anyone to find out what will mark Prague as memorable.

The post Luke’s Europe Trip: Dispatch #1 (London: Your Guide To Leaving The City $150 Richer Than When You Came!) appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

Ok. Most people don’t really consider the U.K. as part of Europe, but in an effort to keep with “Europe Week,” we’ll make an exception.

CNTraveller recently mentioned that you and 49 others can book a night in Winston Churchill’s wartime bunker for the night of May 14, 2010, and live like the British Bulldog did during the war. For 45 pounds you “will be given a night-time tour around the museum, walking the same historic corridors and cabinet rooms as Churchill did decades ago. Guests will be granted unique access to rare films, objects and replica cabinet documents.” The stay also includes your meals — dinner and breakfast — and a bar (but not the price of your drinks). I assume one will need many room-temperature beers as beds are not provided, just the endearing coziness of an auditorium floor and a BYO-sleeping bag.

Another option is to make some tea, don some Clodhopper shoes, then take the virtual tour online. Plus you get to sleep in your own bed that night.

By Brit Weaver

About the Author

Toronto born and based, Brit is an avid leisure cyclist, coffee drinker and under-a-tree park-ist. She often finds herself meandering foreign cities looking for street eats to nibble, trees to climb, a patch of grass to sit on, or a small bookstore to sift through. You can find her musing life on her personal blog, TheBubblesAreDead.wordpress.com.

The post Bedtime In Winston’s Bunker appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

To many it seems as though the bigger the city, the more expensive it is to live there. Rumor has it that cities such as Tokyo, New York City and London are just too expensive to live in. Even as a Toronto-dweller, I always get asked how I can afford to live there. So, how is it that millions of people can afford to live in the world’s megacities? I guess the people look for things to do that are free.

I was excited to read Budget Travel’s “5 Free Things To Do In London” because it is the epitome of an expensive city, unless you know where to go. Alex Robinson compiled a list of events, venues, or ideas of where to experience music and art without coughing up the bucks, or quid.

Enjoy free music at a giant pub in South London, be taken in by two million years of civilization at the British Museum, or be engaged by public figures such as Kofi Annan at the Royal Society of Arts (RSA). Whatever you choose, it will be worth every pence, even if you didn’t spend any. As an additional bonus, Robinson suggested the places because they are indoors, safe from London’s typically damp, bone-chilling winters.

Some of the venues are hosting some interesting spectacles in the near future. At the RSA, there will be a screening of “Slumdog Millionaire” followed by a discussion with the Executive Producer, Brian Woods, and the Producer/Director, Nick Read. At the BBC, they have a comedy series all lined up.

I think city-dwellers worldwide should compile a list of free things to do for thrifty travelers, unemployed sojourners and especially for their very own penny-saving urbanites.

By Brit Weaver

About the Author

Toronto born and based, Brit is an avid leisure cyclist, coffee drinker and under-a-tree park-ist. She often finds herself meandering foreign cities looking for street eats to nibble, trees to climb, a patch of grass to sit on, or a small bookstore to sift through. You can find her musing life on her personal blog, TheBubblesAreDead.wordpress.com.

The post Five Free Things To Do In London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

Criticizing the airlines has become the norm these days, and often with good reason (we’re all guilty, aren’t we?). Somewhere in between the military style seating and astronomical fees for just about anything, there are some good things out there.

This article did the investigative work for us, suggesting eight things already in practice or soon to be. There are a few increasing passenger conveniences, in-seat power sockets, easier upgrades, mood lighting on red-eye flights, checking your bags before you are at the airport, and redesigned seats as in Cathay Pacific’s new fleet. Some are simply overdue updates, axing the prehistoric radar systems for GPS and doing away with the paper ticket entirely. All steps in the right direction.

My favorite, probably based on the futuristic quality of it, are the driverless pods being introduced at London’s Heathrow. You hop in, type in your car’s destination, and let the pod zip you there at twenty five miles per hour.

The post Finally Some Praise For The Airline Industry appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

London may be a notoriously difficult city to find good food, but don’t despair foodies: an insider’s guide to the best eats in town.

By Michele Giordano

Ah, the good ole English drinking tea, riding the tube and gaining their incredible wit from the awful weather. An English friend of mine once said to me, “You need to always be prepared to experience four seasons in one day.” As an island, the climate is far from tropical, bringing immediate showers, gray skies and fast moving clouds that can capture your gaze. London transportation, weather conditions and the best spots for teas are only part of the traveling experience in London, but finding the truly best places to eat around town is how to really understand the city and the English.

It can be hard for any traveler to find the right places to eat, and this is perhaps no more true than in London, a city that it’s fair to say, does not have the best culinary reputation. Before heading somewhere, I usually end up spending weeks researching, asking friends and skimming food websites to find out where the best places are to eat. For me to really experience a destination, I need to be immersed in the foods, flavors, spices, markets and restaurants of the locals.

This is why I ate my way through London for three months and acquired my own list of favorites. With the free museums, spending extra on a good meal seemed reasonable and proved not to be so difficult. The food of London is defined by some traditional English dishes: bubble and squeak; black pudding; fish and chips; bangers and mash; and salted beef beigels. Yet, if you understand the diversity of London, then you also know that there is a lot more to enjoy on a food tour of London.

Pubs are a must when in London. Beer is a way of life for the English. To be social is to “have a chat” with friends at the local pub. The Junction Tavern is perfect for those willing to go off the beaten path to experience how well the English really enjoy their pub life. This Kentish Town pub with its dimmed lights, excellent service and seasonal menu will welcome you in immediately. The locals will likely be sitting at the front small tables drinking pints of beer. The Junction Tavern consists of a few local dishes; the bubble and squeak with the pork chops is an excellent combination of sweet and savory. The marinated olives are a perfect starter with wine or beer as you decide on your entrée. The heated outdoor beer garden and service make the tavern suitable for both casual and formal moods. During lunch, this tavern is a popular destination for business men and women, yet for 8 pounds, it’s still an affordable option.

Carluccio’s is a chain Italian restaurant that carries elegance, ambiance and fresh Italian food. The Carluccio’s in Covent Garden appears upscale, but in actuality, the restaurant has a casual, down-to-earth feel. The small gourmet shop next door features Carluccio’s finest products — ideal for stocking up for dessert for later. The menu includes pasta, paninis, salads and an assortment of desserts. A good brunch can be challenging in London. I like to keep my brunch American style, choosing to avoid the traditionally British beans on toast. Carluccio’s offers the option of eggs with pancetta that can fill you up to seize the day. Pair the eggs with a large cappuccino before heading out to Soho square and The National Portrait Gallery.

Be warned java lovers, most coffee in London is of the bitter, instant kind. But for those that enjoy spending their time in coffee shops, sipping quality brews, and people watching, Monmouth is the place for you. There are numerous locations throughout the city and each is unique in its own way. Pastries, Americanos and old-school charm make me long for this café on each rainy day that passes in London. The Covent Garden shop can easily be missed without looking carefully, but this doesn’t seem to deter crowds. If it’s packed, they will ask that you share a table, but take this as an opportunity to learn more about London: Sit with a local and strike up a conversation while enjoying your cup of coffee.

For the food lover, Borough Market on Saturday’s is a must-visit. London’s oldest food market, breads, fruits, wines, cheese, chocolate and more abound in this massive depository of food. It’s not much of a stretch to say that you could eat all three meals of the day here. Don’t miss the homemade grilled cheese stand and the pork sandwich from the restaurant stall of Roast. Roast’s adjacent restaurant is also glorious within the busy bustling of the best organic, local and fresh food of London. If you’re lucky enough to go on a sunny day, join the locals by grabbing a variety of food and taking a seat by the church courtyard.

For curry, beigels and surprisingly scrumptious pizza, I recommend going to Brick Lane “Banglatown,” home of London’s Bangladeshi community. I’m still amazed that people who travel to London often miss out on the East End experience. If you’re a New Yorker like me, then finding good pizza in London is of utmost importance. Soho and the theater district can fool you into believing that no one in London knows how to make a gourmet pizza. However, the East End has a spot to meet your pizza cravings. While I missed being able to grab a slice on the go (and sandwiches from Marks and Spencer don’t replace a slice), Story Deli soothes my New York City cravings. Usually packed with trendy art students, this unassuming shop’s thin crispy dough is topped with fresh, daily offerings. The menu is listed on the chalkboard, the seating is communal and the service is fast. Beers, coffee and of course tea are also available.

For hot curry, head to Sweet and Spicy, a hole in the wall on Brick Lane that gives you amazing value for your money. Don’t be intimidated by the grungy appearance, the food inside is what really makes this joint worth it. The vegetable curries are fantastic combinations of spice, and the locals inside welcome you even if you’re still learning how to count your change (this I learned from personal experience). Afterward, cool off by going into one of the many Bengali sweet shops next door. The Brick Lane Beigel Bakery is an old tradition for brick lane. The salted beef bagel sandwich with mustard is a delicious combination of salty thick beef on a dry bagel. Open 24 hours, you’ll find a mix of locals, hipster kids and art students fumbling in for a fix at all hours of the day. There are multiple beigel shops competing on the end of Brick Lane. Try them all and determine which is your favorite.

Going to London can mean leaving with a full belly. Eat your way through London and learn the neighborhoods, communities and people. Try something new, try something traditional, eat on the go and eat sitting down. The foodies in London all end up finding someplace to call home, and you will too.

For more information:

Junction Tavern

Carluccio’s

Monmouth Coffee

Borough Market

Roast Restaurant

The post Eating Your Way Through London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

London’s experienced a massive facelift and identity transformation brought on by the influx of banking money and globalization, but there are still a few spots around town where you can get a whiff (quite literally) of a London of yesteryear, or at least maybe a London you can kind of imagine as filtered through Harry Potter.

From throwback candy shops, classic fish and chips joints, and jazz-age basement bars, London has more than a few places to help you forget about the present and escape to the past.

The post Insider’s Guide To Retro London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

London’s a great time to visit this fall now that the crowds have thinned and ticket prices are dropping, so here’s a look at 10 things you should know when you go. At 2:54 you get a good overview of the city’s main museums, which most happen to be free, and at 5:25 there’s a look at some of the best neighborhoods to visit. I’d say head to Camden Town and skip Notting Hill, you know, so you can get that tattoo to remember the trip by.

The post 10 Things You Need To Know About London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.

There’s more to London than the Tate Modern and the bright lights of the West End. Follow this insider’s guide to some of the city’s alternative cultural experiences.

By Laura Bridgestock

London, like most big cities, can be frustrating. You diligently work your way through the “Must See and Do” section of your guide, and maybe you fit in a few spontaneous adventures (or at least manage to get lost a few times). You may even meet a couple of genuine local “characters” and notch up some comic anecdotes along the way, but at the end of your stay you still have a nagging feeling that you’ve barely scratched the surface. I know that’s how I feel — and I’ve been here six months now. However, if you do fancy stepping off the tourist trail for a few hours, here’s a few tips to seeing the “alternative” London.

First, London has a thriving “spoken word” scene. On any night of theweek, there’s bound to be a variety of events going on, often combining performance poetry and prose with comedy and music. The best one I’ve found so far — for sheer energy and atmosphere — is Rhythm Factory’s “A Spoonful of Poison” open mic night every Monday. It’s what you’d call “rough nd ready”: uncovered floor, an improvised stage, randomly grouped collection of chairs and tables, and a dress code that can best be described as “unkempt.” The overall feel is of an impromptu street performance. The vibe’s great, and the enthusiasm and sincerity of the performers is infectious. As Maria shares her life in three musical languages and Du Jean smilingly transitions between ballad and rap, it’s hard not to notice the electricity in the air.

Rhythm Factory’s location in the city’s popular Bangladeshi quarter — on Whitechapel Road, just around the corner from the East End’s well-known Brick Lane — has historically been home to successive waves of immigrants and forms an eclectic urban melting pot with a flourishing youth culture and infectiousvibe. To check out the music coming out of this exciting scene, make for the top end of Brick Lane where 93 Feet East and Vibe Bar are some of the city’s best venues for showcasing great local talent.

At the other end of the cultural spectrum (and town) is the area surrounding Tottenham Court Road (aka “theaterland”). Just beyond the musicals and bookshops is a network of backstreets where you’re bound to stumble across some highbrow gatherings, and you can’t get more highbrow than a “gay literary salon” at Green Carnation on Greek Street. Don’t be put off by the ridiculously pretentious name, it’s essentially a poetry reading. They also have cabaret nights, but even if there’s no event scheduled, it’s worth going for the luxurious and decadent
setting.

If “gay Victorian gentlemen’s club” isn’t quite your thing, the West End has plenty of other “alternative” venues and nights to choose from — if you knowwhere to look. Trash Palace, on Wardour Street, is easily missed: it’s accessed by an innocuous doorway squeezed in between the cheerfully garish restaurants of Soho’s Chinatown. It’s a gay bar popular with the young indie crowd and good for a reasonably-priced drink in retro-cool but comfy surroundings, and a bit of
old-school disco.

CellarDoor is even more well hidden — literally underground in what presumably
used to be a public restroom. Given the size restriction, it makes clever use of mirrors which can make things confusing after a kicking back a few cocktails. The décor is burlesque-themed, and I personally recommend the surprisingly comfortable giant-lip-shaped stools. If that’s not novelty enough, you can choose a track on the jukebox by text message (though when I was there I had to head outside to get reception) or make your way to the bathroom to check out the glass walls that become opaque when the light is turned on (again, maybe a little confusing after a few drinks).

For a less invasive experience, cross over the river to London Bridge and check
out Roxy Bar and Screen on Borough High Street. There’s absolutely no better way
to enjoy a movie than settled into a plush leather sofa, with a waiter on hand to take your drink order and a good selection of high-end snacks to choose from if you get the munchies. The theatre shows all type of movies including foreign
films, recent releases, cult classics, director’s cuts, documentaries and amateur shorts. Following the showing there’s usually a wine-fuelled discussion, often involving someone involved in (or with some link) to the movie’s production.

And finally, if you really do want to get off the beaten track, take the number 73 bus up to Stoke Newington to Maggie’s Bar on Church Street, where there’s a lively arts and music scene of the more “unorthodox” variety. Maggie’s promises a journey — via music, poetry and film — into the unknown. In my experience this means a man with a cabbage-shaped tea-cosy on his head performing a four-word, four-minute long “poem” to a teddy bear making noises like a frog crossed with Darth Vader, followed by a quartet from Istanbul featuring a cello, a percussion section made up of essentially someone’s garbage, and a women emitting guttural sounds to rival even the teddy bear. Meanwhile, this was all being transformed into manic, impressionistic paintings by the woman sitting next to you. Weird? Definitely. Welcome to the London underground.

The post Not The West End: An Insider’s Guide To Alternative London appeared first on The Expeditioner Travel Site.