Traveling the South of Argentina can be a bit physically grueling and not easy on the walley. Nevertheless, there are some things that one must see if you travel to the Patagonian region.

San Carlos de Bariloche is a touristy, Swiss-style town with many outdoor activities to work off all the chocolate you consume. Some of my favorite activities were hiking up the Cerro Camponario (take local buses 22, 21 or 10) and riding hybrid-mountain bikes through 25 kms of  “good” Argentine roads (potholes are a pervasive part of the pavement’s compostion). There are two companies from which you can rent bicycles (take the same local buses as above) and the hostels are usually able to reserve you one. The buses, or colectivos, cost $6AR pesos and they do give change within reason (unlike Buenos Aires)!

El Bolson is a small, hippie village nestled in the Andean range that is incredibly accessible from Bariloche. Many companies offer seats and the cost is between $20AR and $23AR (between $6US and $7US). While in Bariloche, everyone recommended the town for its trails and artisanal beer. As a result of being the town that grows a ton of hops, there are so many independent beer labels that it would have been impossible to try them all in the few nights that I was there, although I did give it a decent attempt. (more…)

This week the NY Times hailed London, England, as the next city for the coffee craze. Although the major corporations, like Starbucks, are pervasive in this international city, there seems to be a movement towards the smaller, independent shops that see coffee as an art.

But, as most people know, this java renaissance is happening all over the world. The World Barista Championships is just one marker of how coffee culture is evolving. My friend competed in a barista competition last year and his specialty coffee was a latte that tasted of bacon and eggs.

The NYT listed some independent coffee shops scattered throughout the foggy British capital and claims it as an emerging “coffee town.”Is tea becoming passe there?

Living in Buenos Aires, I have observed that Argentines really like coffee, consuming it by the liter. Yet, they do not love coffee, as that consumption includes liters of scalding-hot, cardboard liquid. I love coffee. I am a coffee snob. There, I said it. As well, I would like to go as far as to say that the crouching tiger of coffee towns is Toronto. There, I said that too.

What About Toronto?

TheNYT listed 4 or 5 places where you can buy haute-espresso in London, but I would like to give some Toronto recommendations. I am going to stay away from where to buy beans as most of these espresso bars have the option of purchasing high-grade, ethically-sound, freshly-roasted buds of deliciousness.

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It was a long two weeks in which almost a third of my time was spent on overnight buses. I traveled from Buenos Aires to Bariloche to El Bolsón to El Calafate and back to Buenos Aires, all by bus.

When I arrived in Argentina, I gave no consideration to leaving Buenos Aires. As one of the world´s largest cities, I figured I would have plenty to do. Then I read Bruce Chatwin´s, In Patagonia, a travel classic and absolutely epic account of man´s need to see the desolate Patagonian terrain.

Then I stumbled upon Paul Theroux´s, The Old Patagonian Express, a journey through the region that started in Boston and ended in the desolate, Patagonian terrain. Theroux was a friend of Chatwin´s by no coincidence.

So it was, I decided to make my way to the desolation that is Patagonia. I decided to take the bus although everyone recommended that I fly straight to Bariloche. However, I wanted to see the country and meet the locals, as locals don´t usual have the luxury to fly.

I now believe, without a doubt, no matter what the maps looks like, that Argentina is a big country. Since I took so many buses, I wanted to share some tip on traveling by bus in Argentina: (more…)

The NY Times has graced us again with a look at how to spend your weekend. This time, it takes us to Buenos Aires. Being one of Latin America’s largest cities, there is too much to do in 36 hours. This would be one of those moments to choose quality over quantity of things experienced.

I checked out the list and I can honestly say I have not done, eaten, seen one thing on it. Yet, the itinerary definitely nailed some “must-dos”, like a football match — preferably the Boca Junior against their infamous rivals River Plate — and Graffitimundo, a tour of the spray-painted streets in  Buenos Aires.

Undoubtedly, if you are only in the city for a weekend, you may want to change your sleep schedule. As the article suggests, and I agree, porteños like to party all night long and it’s an experience you will not want to miss.

This article tends to focus on two neighborhoods in Buenos Aires: Palermo and Recoleta. Just as an addition, or perhaps a swap if time does not permit, I would have drinks at 878 in Palermo (Thames 878), a former speakeasy, which radiates relaxation and ambiance. For some reason, some bars in the city jack up the lights, which makes it very uncomfortable to drink and have a conversation at the same time. However, 878 does everything right. From low lighting to leather sofas, it is very comfortable spot to finish off the night. (more…)

To many it seems as though the bigger the city, the more expensive it is to live there. Rumor has it that cities such as Tokyo, New York City and London are just too expensive to live in. Even as a Toronto-dweller, I always get asked how I can afford to live there. So, how is it that millions of people can afford to live in the world’s megacities? I guess the people look for things to do that are free.

I was excited to read Budget Travel’s “5 Free Things To Do In London” because it is the epitome of an expensive city, unless you know where to go. Alex Robinson compiled a list of events, venues, or ideas of where to experience music and art without coughing up the bucks, or quid.

Enjoy free music at a giant pub in South London, be taken in by two million years of civilization at the British Museum, or be engaged by public figures such as Kofi Annan at the Royal Society of Arts (RSA). Whatever you choose, it will be worth every pence, even if you didn’t spend any. As an additional bonus, Robinson suggested the places because they are indoors, safe from London’s typically damp, bone-chilling winters.

Some of the venues are hosting some interesting spectacles in the near future. At the RSA, there will be a screening of “Slumdog Millionaire” followed by a discussion with the Executive Producer, Brian Woods, and the Producer/Director, Nick Read. At the BBC, they have a comedy series all lined up.

I think city-dwellers worldwide should compile a list of free things to do for thrifty travelers, unemployed sojourners and especially for their very own penny-saving urbanites.

Other than checking out the Vancouver Olympics, there are some ideas kicking around for what to do in the New Year. If your resolution happens to be traveling to places where your conscience remains intact, then check out this article from The Star of the Top Ten Ethical Places to travel compiled by the group, appropriately named, Ethical Traveler. The reasons factored into its list range from environmental protectionism to the support of social infrastructures in different countries.

Although every place on the list seems fascinating, I would still like to question the overall integrity of what defines “ethical.” Glaringly, some of the countries listed are involved in politically and/or economically actions at home. But what country doesn’t? So, what constitutes “ethical”? I don’t mean to diminish the list, I’m more or less curious on people’s thoughts or ideas about these and other places to travel. Rather, perhaps ethical traveling is about being aware and keeping an open mind.

However, whether you need a suggestion, something to give weight to a decision, or just to learn an interesting tourism fact, check out the Top Ten.

Christmas Eve was a unique experience. The roomies and I got to hang out with some people that we have met, drinking wine, eating beef, and watching fireworks go off from the rooftop terrace. Not like any Christmas I have experienced before.

After some eats and treats, our hosts decided to give out some presents. We didn’t expect gifts this Christmas. We were taken aback and humbled by the gesture. We tore open the wrapping and found a guide to Argentina. However, it wasn’t just any guide. Upon reading the contents within, we were shocked and humored at this compilation of hilarious, and sometimes crude, colloquialisms used by porteños.

It begins with a disclaimer to use the book wisely. Although Argentines are known for some pretty vulgar slang, the guide warns to use the language only amidst friends and open-minded family.

Essentially, is is a dictionary that starts with abollado (literally meaning dented, but in Argentina it means someone who appears to be in rough shape), all the way to zoquete (which literally means short socks; porteños use the word to mean “idiot” or “fool”), and everything in between.

Apparently, the word for “fart,” pedo, is really common here. For example, “en pedo” is translated as “in farted,” but really means “to be drunk.” The saying, “vivir en nubo de pedos” (to live in a cloud of farts), means to be out of touch with reality.

However, some of the content is quite shocking. Some of the words used for genitalia or profanities are words that one could accidentally use everyday. Be careful what context you use words like palo (stick) or concha (shell). Sometimes they mean something entirely different.

There are also double meanings that may seem bizarre at first. Transar can mean two things: to french kiss or to make an illegal deal or agreement. Is there a common root there?

In the back of the book are common phrases that an Argentine could use. When someone says, “me pica el bagre” –  catfish is nibbling at me — it doesn´t mean anything crude, instead it means, “I´m hungry.” If someone does “mandar fruta“  — send fruit — he or she is actually lying or talking crap. If someone eats a little bone — comerse un huesito — he is talking about how he slept with a beautiful women.

There are more quips and phrases that I don´t have space nor the nerve to write. However, a highly recommended read, even if you don´t travel to Argentina but want to know the idiosyncrasies of the language. If you ever see the guide, pick it up because they are hard to find. Copies are available in the U.S. on Amazon starting at $16.11.

If you’re thinking of hopping a flight to Buenos Aires in order to escape the snow or cold, I have some things to point out. I am not writing this to critique Argentine culture, but as a heads-up to travelers. Even though I read a lot about Buenos Aires before living here, it seems that I may have skipped over these tips.

In no specific order, the bizarre behaviors of porteños are:

No. 1: Porteños kiss everyone as a greeting and farewell. Whether it is woman to woman, man to woman, man to man, just one kiss, right cheek to right cheek will help you blend in. Don´t be frightened if an Argentine leans in for a beso.

No. 2: Some days you will be walking down the street and see young people covered in a) paint, or b) egg and flour. I have no idea what kind of initiation or ritual this is, apparently it happens in a lot of Latin American cities and towns. Here, it happens a lot. (UPDATE: Turns out this has to do with celebrating university.)

No. 3: Dodging dog poop is a fact of life. In fact, scooping poop is the third most important issue in an election. Currently, the government has a campaign, jugálimpio, to try and encourage people to clean up after their dogs. My advice: scan the sidewalks before you step.

No. 4: Change, coin, centavos are a rarity, but are vital to taking the colectivo (the bus) anywhere. Vendors, store owners, or people on the street are reluctant to make coin. They will even give you more money back if it means holding onto their centavos. Just remember to keep your change whenever you can. Wonder why? Check out this bizarre explanation.

No. 5: Last, but not least, ladies be warned, cat-calling and wolf-whistling is everywhere. Even the slightest feminist-sympathizer may get angry or frightened, but do not be, most of the calls are harmless. That is not to say you should be wandering around alone at night in all neighborhoods. Just don´t let the calls bother you, it´s a cultural thing. Let me put it this way, even the buses can wolf-whistle.

As a follow-up to Monday’s article about proper hostel etiquette — a must-read for first-time travelers — BootsnAll has this list of the “7 Deadly Sins of Travel,” which, I guarantee, even the most seasoned travelers have partaken in the past. (Given to any beggars during your trips?)

Regarding #1, “Taking budget travel too seriously” — something I definitely tend to do (bread for dinner anyone?) — the article points out that the little extra you spend is helping to go into a local economy that likely depends on travelers like yourself.

I like #5 too, “Getting carried away with the culture,” an affliction that happens all too-often in Asia. “You know the type – they don kimonos, saris or robes to go about their daily affairs, would never dream of eating a hamburger and cringe at the very notion of socializing with one of their countrymen.”

I’m a little mixed about #7, “Judging other travelers.” I understand there’s no need for travel snobbery by someone who’s lucky enough to be in their 9-month around-the-world voyage, or who has discovered the perfect off-the-beaten-path destination. But isn’t it kind of fun (and somewhat justified) to be able to look down your nose at the fanny pack-wearing, tour-bus cramming, unfolded map in the middle of a busy sidewalk gazing tourist?

With over 50,000 apps already for the iPhone, figuring out which ones are the best for the intrepid traveler is the hard part. Lucky for you Travel + Leisure’s naming their top 11 travel apps, ranging from the basic — unit conversion, voice recorder — to the truly necessary — where’s the closest free toilet? And you were just using it to play solitaire. Pshaw.

UPDATE: I’ve been alerted by inside sources of another list of travel apps, this one coming from National Geographic, and it has 20, which is way more than 11. Which is better? You do the math. Here’s the list.

“Free” and “cheap” seem to be the theme of the site this week, which is probably a reflection of the pitiful state of my bank account (do airlines really need to charge for their tickets?). There are plenty of options for cheap travel, from hostels, street food and just plain mooching, but there are also plenty of better alternatives.

Budget Travel, staying true to their name, has 9 tips for traveling free, including such far-flung proposals such as: #7 — helping out at a farm (depends on what type of farm don’t you think? Is this a quaint, cheese-producing, quirky neighbor-type farm in the South of France or is this a manure farm in Missouri? Big difference), # 2 — volunteering at a hiking trail, or #1, 3, and 6 — crash at someone else’s pad (couchsurfing.com, “Home Swapping,” and sister-city exchanges). The last couchsurfers that stayed at my house gave me a bottle of ice wine, some homemade jam, and an invitation to stay at their — probably much nicer — place any time. What better way to travel?

My recent travels have been exclusively cell-phone free, which has had both its advantages and drawbacks. It’s a strangely comforting feeling to revert back to those pre-mobile days where you truly can become detached from the rest of the world (minus your daily blog postings of course), and where meetings take on that old-fashioned feeling (I’ll meet you at 3 in the square, if we don’t see each other, then it was good to meet you). Of course, this can also mean planned encounters often go astray (crowded squares, delays, etc . . . ) and calls via public phones can eat up precious travel time (what exactly was that country code again and when do I enter it?).

To help you out, the Frugal Traveler’s dishing on how to make and receive calls internationally for nearly nothing, all it takes is an unlocked phone (time to strike up a conversation with that shady bodega owner on the corner), a local SIM card, and a Skype account. Unlock the phone, buy a local SIM card, set up a Skype account (thanks Estonia!) and that’s it. Calls to your cellphone will go to Skype, then back out again and to your traveling number. Now to figure out how to block calls from work on Skype . . .

I think Rolf Potts said it best:

During this time, fresh off your travel-high, you will have trouble settling in and reintegrating into a normal, home-based routine. Nothing will feel as fresh or exotic as it did during your travels, your old friends won’t relate to your amazing overseas experiences, and you’ll feel a strange sensation of homesickness for the road.

It’s like that feeling you used to get as a kid on Christmas day after you were done unwrapping presents. That’s it. All the anticipation, all the glory, all the good times, gone until next year. That sinking feeling starts to set in as you realize its just a matter of hours until its back to the grind of multiplication tables and diorama construction, with Christmas a full year around the corner.

I think it’s kind of like that at the end of a trip too, except maybe compounded because you also begin to realize that not only is your next trip a ways off, but you’re also going to be spending the foreseeable future paying off that past trip.

Bootsnall has 10 suggestions for beating those post-travel blues. My personal favorite is number three: “Write About Your Trip.” I agree, but I’d suggest to not only write about it, but also create a travel video from your trip, blog about it, and ruminate about it on your website for months afterward until you’re ready for the next.

I also like number four: “Start Planning Your Next Adventure.” This is like telling a drug addict to just go ahead and do more. It doesn’t really help get you over it, it just helps to feed the addiction; nothing wrong with that.

I remember hearing the NYT’s Matt Gross a/k/a “The Frugal Traveler” a/k/a Moby’s traveling doppelganger mention this ridiculously amazing travel advice during a talk last Fall: if you like being nailed $5 for every cash withdrawal you make abroad and paying exorbitant special interest rates for international purchases, don’t change your bank. But if you want to pay zip each time you hit the ATM or when you pay with plastic, then switch over to Capital One, the only major bank in the world that has this deal. Man, there are some smart people over at the Times.